Window lifter mechanism


Joel

New member
Trying to remove the window lifter mechanism from left front door. I'm at the point where I've removed the bolt that fastens the front guide channel. Supposedly, once this bolt is removed, you should be able to move the front guide channel to create a gap, through which, the lifter (rod) mechanism can be pulled through. It's hard to see up into that area inside the door frame and I'm not certain which way I'm supposed to move that channel (I don't want to break the window!). Any advice out there!?
 

Joel

New member
But, you're Capt. Mike. I thought you would intuitively know what model and year. Seriously, though, I came to the immediate realization that the Bentley manual was not much help with this particular problem. After some contemplation, I figured out the course of action and eventually succeeded. If you think that others would benefit, I would be glad to describe the steps I took in replacing the window lift mechanism in my 1970 Type II camper. Thanks for your attention.
 

Joel

New member
I had some time on my hands, so I thought I would reply to my reply. I stated that the Bentley Manual was fairly limited in its instructions for removing the window lift mechanism (kind of misleading in one of the steps). I think I can provide clearer instructions re: Type II (1970 camper). Here goes...
A. Refer to Bentley Manual, Body & Frame Chapter, section 5.8, steps 1-7. These steps are clear enough.
B. Step 8 is not clear to me; in fact, I think its bogus. After step 7, you may need to raise the window (I did anyway). The window is not supported by the lift mechanism at this point, so you will have to lift the window with your hand(s) and support with a stick or something. I used a long screwdriver -- which I shoved into one of the many holes you see in the door frame up near the window opening -- to leverage up the window glass; keeping the screwdriver wedged in there to keep the window up.
C. Slightly lift up the end of the window lift mechanism where the lifter channel bracket is (or was) and pull it out of the door frame and just leave it dangling there out in space.
D. Now bring down the window (gently) and leave it resting at the bottom of the door frame.
E. Take out the 2 screws that hold the vent wing frame (if you didn't do this already). The top screw is hidden by the felt gasket that runs along the top of the window frame. Just pull enough of the felt gasket away to get at the top screw. After taking out this screw, which goes through a metal tab thingy, bend that metal tab down slightly so that it does not get in the way when you jostle with the vent wing frame.
F. Now, loosen the vent wing frame. Gently jostle the frame by slightly pulling, pushing, and twisting the back part of this frame until it loosens up enough. You should eventually see the frame work its way loose from the front of the door frame. At this point, with the palm of your hand, bump and push the vent frame back to the point where its angled way back. You do not need to completely remove the vent wing frame.
G. Take a moment and relax; sip on your beer or something. After that, grab the window lifter mechanism and jostle on it a bit. You should, by now, be able to feel how the lift mechanism will slip by that long metal back bracket of the vent wing frame. You may have to pull back a little more on the vent wing frame. When I did this, the window lift mechanism just fell out of the door frame and on the ground.
H. Now put the new window lift mechanism in place and reverse the steps above. I sprayed a bunch of lithium grease all along the cable inside its guide before I placed it in the door frame. I think that's it, now it's your turn. GOOD LUCK!
 

Joel

New member
This is an addendum to the instructions above concerning the RUBBER. FIRST: Don't worry about the rubber seals around the wing vent frame; the frame is all one piece and the rubber stays with it even when your moving the frame. You don't need to mess with the wvfr (wing vent frame rubber). SECOND: If your bus still has the rubber window scrapers, then you will need to pop out the front end of the inside scraper next to the wvf or the front window guide -- only about 3 inches of it; just enough to make room for the wvf as you angle the wvf back. Thought you might like to know. :cool:
 

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