Stove problems


Capt. Mike

Moderator
Transferred from Archives.

Stove valve handle snapped off
Ed Hamilton (edham@pacbell.net), 1/8/00 (12:50 AM)

Recently purchased an '87 Westy. One nagging problem is that the right-hand on/off valve handle is cleanly snapped-off, midway between the handle and the valve assembly. There isn't enough of the valve core to attach anything to, in order to turn it. Has anyone run into this before, and what to do? Advice greatly appreciated.

Ed Hamilton, San Francisco

Capt. Mike Soehnlein, 1/11/00 (6:51 AM)

I don't have any instant sources -- I understnad you have to buy the whole manifold assembly from VW. Go to my pics Site linked from the home page for a diagram of the LP system in a Vanagon; it will at least give you an idea of what you're working with.

Site sponsor GoWesty is now the largest supplier of Westy replacement parts around, see if they have or at least can suggest a source.

Beyond that, the original stove was US made and perhaps a really good RV stove repair shop can look at your set-up and see if a repair or substitute valve can be adapted. It's quite possible the internals of the valve are generic with other stove models.

Capt. Mike
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Transferred from another post to consolidate same topics.

Burner valve not closing completely

sabo, Junior Member, 03-20-2001 01:44 AM

I just bought an '84 Westfalia Wolfsberg. One of the burner valves doesn't seem to be closing completely as there is enough leakage to keep a small flame going when the valve is turned all the way to the stopping point. Has anyone had seen this before? Any ideas for fixing it?

I have ordered my Bentley manual but it has not yet arrived. Wondering if this kind of thing would be covered in there anyway. If so, shame on me for being impatient.

Thanks
Dan
 

vanafan

New member
I had the same problem with my '86 Westy when I purchased it; the left valve stem on the stove was snapped off about 1/8" out from the face of the stove. The prior owner had used a hacksaw or something to cut a notch in the stub so he could use a small screwdriver to operate the valve. I fabricated an extension to the valve stem from a 1/4" diameter brass bolt (that's the same diameter as the original stem). I hacksawed it to the proper length and used a file on it while in a vise to create a blade-like extension on one end to fit in the slot that was already there in the valve stem stub. The other end I filed until it matched the half-round configuration which would fit in a new knob I ordered to match the existing. I used a small wooden block with a v-notch carved in it (attached to the stove face below the stem with tape)to align the new extension with the old stub (and hold it in place until the adhesive dried). I then used some JB Weld to attach the extension to the stub, with a generous amount as a "collar" around the connection as well. It's held for two camping trips now with no problems. From any angle it looks and functions exactly as the original knob on the right. I don't know if the connection would have held as well without the filed notch; probably not. Try it.
 

fred

New member
I just purchased a '90 Westy and tyring to figure out the new fanguled gageties. (My '77 doest not have a stove).

The first burner works well but the second burn has a very little flame. The Bentley manual did not cover list and the Vanagon manual is gone.

Do you know of any refernece material that would help?

Thanks!

Arthur
Fred -> 1977 Westy
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Westy manuals are readily available from a variety of vendors posted elsewhere, including site sponsor GoWesty and the original publishers, Bentley. Both are listed in the PARTS or SUPPLIERS forums.

The '90 stove is not particularly different than any LP. Overall LP is supplied by the regulator at the tank. A 2nd regulator in the stove head insures consistent LP flow at the appropriate pressure for the burners. Diagrams are posted on the tech drawings site linked from the home page.

One 'quirk' of the Vanagon design is that it has a simmer setting all the way to the left (knobs open counterclockwise). As you open the valve, the flow increases until shortly before full left at which point it then reduces back to a simmer setting. Thus "full on" is in reality a very low flow that often will not stay lit in wind, with low LP or a dirty system. Your Westy should have come with the key (tool) to remove and clean the burners.

Capt. Mike
 

ralph315

New member
Hello!
I'm the new owner of an '82 Subaru-powered Westy. I just tried using the stove for the first time and am puzzled. On both burners, I got huge, yellow, sputtering flames except when they were turned all the way down, and therefore not very effective. I couldn't find anything to adjust other than the knobs, so is this how they are supposed to work, or is there some adjustment I'm not seeing? FYI, the propane tank is full, and I don't yet have a camper-supplement to the owner's manual to consult. Thanks for whatever help you can offer!
--Richard
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Sputtering, yellow flame usually indicates it is getting too much air. Best bet is to see a good LP dealer/repair facility. The stove is fairly generic and they can probably track down where the errant mixture is caused.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Transferred to consolidate same topic.

canadajin9 Junior Member posted April 23, 2003 01:19 AM

The metal sink/stove prop-up brace on my 89 Vanagon GL Westy is broken and I was wondering if there is a "hardware store" solution out there. I was also wondering if anyone has tried putting in a light gauge hydraulic strut (like in the newer Eurovans) and if so, what type/size?

Thanks,
Clarence

A. Cooper Member posted April 25, 2003 10:22 AM

I found something similar at a local hardware store, and at a nearby woodcrafting shop. About four bucks. Called Support Hinges, they are commonly used to hold open the lids of jewelry boxes, suitcases, toy chests, etc.. I discreetly installed one on the lid of my galley cabinet just aft of the stove, to hold it open while I rummage around inside for my peanut butter and crackers.

I could only find them in brass-plated. I suppose if you wanted the original look, you could wire brush the brass off and then hit it with chrome spray paint or clear polyurethane. I don't know if they are the same size as the original so you may have to drill new holes to mount it to the sink/stove cover.
IMPORTANT: follow the directions on the package for aligning and drilling -- the geometry of these hinges is very crucial for proper functioning.

As for the pneumatic version, I suppose you could try the VW dealer but be prepared for much head-scratching and probably a handsome price. But maybe not. Otherwise try a good RV shop -- either local or online -- to try and find one of a suitable size.

Good luck, and in the meantime keep your fingers out of the way!
 

boonez

New member
I recently got a furnace installed in the westy which is a 1984. When we tried the furnace it worked fine in the shop. However it was 0 degrees celcius (32 fahrenheit). Later that evening we travelled east towards Banff where it got as low as -20. I turned the propane on and hissing was coming from the stove even though the stove was shut off. I shut the main propane tank off and the hissing stopped. I tried this a few times with no success. I even drained the tank and refilled it with no success. Any ideas? I'm wanting the stove to work. The guy who installed it put a splitter on one of the lines to the stove. Would this create problems? Thank You in Advance.

Mark Rainer
Email:rainmakersolutions@hotmail.com
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
The "splitter" alone shouldn't do it but often they are connected at the regulator. This may have changed your regulator pressures. However, remember that you have a 2nd regulator for the stove and that may be the source of your leak. It's between the primary regulator that feeds the fridge and the stove.
 

boonez

New member
It was the main regulator that was shot. However after checking the stove for propane leaks we found that propane seemed to be making it past the valves and leaking very slowly. So I'm looking at trying to find the manifold for the stove. I'm going to try the delta six companie listed on the instructions that Captain Mike has for the stove. I can't seem to find a second regulator that is shown in the diagram though. Might be a little different. Not sure.

If anyone has experience with these stove valves please let me know so I can start to ask you questions.

Thank You again for your help,

Mark

Mark Rainer
Email:rainmakersolutions@hotmail.com
 
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Capt. Mike

Moderator
Delta Six now has a new name. GoWesty seems to have the most comprehensive set of Camper parts. Both are listed in the PARTS OR SUPPLIERS forums.
 

boonez

New member
Phoned GoWesty and they don't seem to have stoves for westies. I called a local guy out here M R O Rv in Vancouver and they want 135/valve that is leaking to machine it. YIKES!

Mark Rainer
Email:rainmakersolutions@hotmail.com
 

Hershamboy

New member
Hi, (Hope I'm in the right place) My 1989 westfalia california came with no manuals and I can't seem to get any gas through to the cooker, I'm sure I've got all the right taps turned on and the gauge on the tank say's there is plenty of gas.Someone has just suggested I should be pressing a safety button whilst lighting the cooker - does this make any sense and if so where is it ? Thenk's for any help
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Westy manuals are readily available; see the PARTS & VENDORS forums for recommendations (& warnings). GoWesty is the best known.

A common operator error is that when turning the stove knob, you can go past full gas flow to a "simmer" setting which may be too low to start.
 

nikov

New member
well my stove problem is a lil different in our 1981 vanagon L. the right hand valve of the stove simply does not turn at all. so ... there is little or no information in the Bently manual about this problem. some help from this great webforum would be appreciated. and kudos Capt Mike for doing such a great job magaging this board. help like how do i get the entire gas manifold out to begin with...just in case i find a junker that has a good one in it..or can im just change a burner?any and all tips will be appreciated, thanks Nick
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
If you have good function on one burner and nothing on the other, it's probably a burner/manifold clog or burner control valve failure since they use a common supply.

In the Capt. Mike's Tech Drawings you'll find the OE stove parts list and a close-up of the burner assembly. Burner removal and cleaning is fairly simple. Your VW originally came with a simple key tool to remove the burner. It's simple and you can fabricate one out of some flat stock. All you need are the two tabs pictured -- the rest is just 'handle.'

Unfortunately, VW only purchased & suppled the manifold as a complete assembly, including both valves. Thus I think you'll find you must either replace the entire manifold assembly, or have a competent LP service tech replace the valve.

From the parts list, you can see the LP connection is a single line with a fitting near the manifold. Getting under the cabinet surface does have a 'trick' that is not covered in the cabinet part of the shop manual -- there are tiny screws under the front trim strip and another one or two on the side panels of the cabinet that help secure the top to the cabinet.

The stove is fairly generic RV and was manufactured in the US. Since VW & Delta Six no longer supply parts, you are probably going to have to see what GoWesty can supply or revert to a custom repair -- not as complex as you'd think due to commonality with other RV units. Manifolds are basically pipes -- they can be fabricated from stock to replace the existing stamped assemblies, but remember, this is LP! Use only an expert LP fabricator because of the fire hazard. If you question the wisdom and expense of that, look in the "My Photos" album on the tech drawings site!
 

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icarus

Moderator
Aside from Mikes suggestion, clean the burner and the orifices. I have had problems with l/p pressure regulators in the past, leaking diaphram grease into the l/p lines and clogging orifices. Depending on what regulator you have, it might have a greased diaphram. There is little to go wrong with the gas valves or burners except gunk. A good cleaning should solve your problem.
 

nikov

New member
Done ! thanks guys, the valve stem was stuck after so many years of neglect and lack of use. taking the front panel of the stove off with Capt Mike's trick of the two side screws and the three bottom screws was a bit hard at first cause it was kinda stuck in there from all that food residue. a little hammer with a piece of wood tapping downward gently persuaded it. then a bit of penetrating oil INSIDE the actual turing part of the valve..a lil wait then the old fashioned tire iron with the flat hubcap remover tip fit in there nicely and gave good even leverage. a lil twist and voila! it turns! we took this opportunity to remove the rust from the front panel and re spray it almost the same color. looks great and works even better so...thanks again icarus and Capt Mike.
 
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ltgornon

New member
i recently bought an 85 westy and i cant seem to get any gas to come out of the stove( i am a rookie but i did open the propane valve if thats what you were thinkin). im wondering if it can be fixed and how.

[Moderator Note: Edited out non-stove topics (Guideline #1)].
 

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