Start/restart or stalling problems


wanderingsole

New member
Hot engine won't start!

I have an '84 westy with a hiccup. It starts brilliantly when cold, however when the engine is warm (run for 10-15 mins) it won't start (just turns over). To remedy the cause I open the engine cover, let her cool for 10-15 minutes and then she starts again. I had the same issue last year and the shop installed a load reduction relay kit, ignition module, hall sendor, and fuel pressure regulator. Any other thoughts or short term remedies... I live in the NWT and have a 2 day drive to a vw mechanic.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Please see and report the results of the tests suggested 8/20/03 in posts #31-34 (Guideline #4). See Bentley 24.18 - 24.21 for specifications.
 

wanderingsole

New member
Capt. Mike,

I have yet to run the Bentley tests and will. Could bad gas (water in the tank after a long winter) cause similar symptoms?

deb
 

TanWesty

New member
85 Westy No start...too much fuel

Hello everyone I am having a problem with my 85 vanagon gl westfalia. It will not start. I have narrowed it down to too much fuel. When I say too much fuel I mean that it floods out before it starts. I have unplugged the fuel pump and it actually runs. It idles rough but it runs without me having to do anything. But as soon as the fuel pump is plugged back in it dies and will not restart. I have checked the coolant temp sensor and it was ok. I also check the injectors and the were leaking and had a terrible spray pattern so I replaced them. Fuel pressure is in spec. It seems to be getting good spark. Now I am not sure what to check next. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Think about what you've just said. Although there may be some residual pressure for a very short period, how can an engine run with the fuel turned off? :rolleyes: Stop the electric pump, there is no fuel; this is not a vacuum or gravity feed system. You've either got something miswired or are not performing the tests right.

Flooding on an FI engine is usually caused by the injectors NOT shutting off -- this is an ECU problem. I didn't see any reference to a full troubleshooting test per Bentley §24.18 - 24.21. FI is too interrelated to pick & choose which tests you perform. Start at the beginning and perform in sequence, even if they seem irrelevant.

An FI engine operates on the principle of supplying too much fuel and then routing the excess back to the tank. If this bleed of the excess pressure is restricted, the fuel has nowhere to go.
 
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netwatchers

New member
Wont start in cold weather,...

I have a 1980 westy and as soon as the temp dips below 40, it doesnt want to start. Once it is started and warmed up, it re-starts fine, but if it sits for a day or more in cold weather it just wont start. Any ideas??
 

Jim Stapleton

New member
91 Vanagon intermittent no spark/no start

1991 Vanagon Westfalia Camper, manual tranny, 219,000 miles. VW yellow sticker engine. During the last two years an intermittent no spark/no start (turns over, just won't start). It would happend when it was hot - restart after driving. Recently, it was no longer intermittent - no spark/no start (turns over just won't start). Using my Bently, multi-meter, and a variety of replacement parts I checked all grounds, then replaced coil, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter. Fuel pump is working. No change. Purchased used distributor - no change. Purchased used computer - started right up. Air flow meter adjusting screw is stuck - frozen, stripped out.

All was good during the first test drive (after doing all of the above) until I shut it down after 20 minutes of driving. Now I'm back to intermittent no spark/no start. It will compression start - wife doesn't like the idea of always having to park on an incline with the front end pointed down hill. Confirmed no spark by pulling coil to distributor plug wire, and placing near engine mount bolt with wife turning key on. Same by removing spark plug wire and inserting new plug into plug wire and grounding to engine - no spark. Compression started to get it home.

This morning - started on the second try. Key in, first click, hear fuel pump, wait 5 seconds, turn key to start - nothing. Second try - it starts.

Looking for insight on what to attack - direct my attention to. The issue of compression starting after testing and finding no spark is challenging.

This is a great site and venue for information and feedback. I've attempted to read all the post related to no starts. When it runs, it runs great no issues. Located in Baja -Mexico - San Felipe. No VW dealer near by. And no desire to ever take it back across the border into the states. Preparing to purchase a parts Vanagon for a supply of parts.
 

MTwestee

New member
Where do I find Guideline #3 in this forum, and the tests suggested below ? I have spent a while do searches. Thanks very much

From 5/26/08: "Please see and report the results of the tests suggested 8/20/03 in posts #31-34 (Guideline #4). See Bentley 24.18 - 24.21 for specifications".

[Moderator Note: The link is about 1½" above your post in the first yellow box of site rules.]
 
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jo100

New member
Won't restart when hot

i have the same problem..tried coolant temp sensor..and everything under the sun on bentley to fix this problem..my mechanic said he gives up hahaha..mines 84 as well.does the 84 have a heat temp sensor like the air cooled models? bentley says no..any ideas
 
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Capt. Mike

Moderator
The '84 has two temperature sensors. One is primarily for the gauge & warning sytem (Bentley wiring diagram circuit #32) and the other, that controls the ECU is in circuit #6. However, I remind you that an engine that starts cold and runs fine until shut off, then won't restart hot, is often suffering from vapor lock. Did "everything under the sun" include a full check of the fuel delivery system (own forum)? Did it include checking fuel pump output and pressure? Insufficient of either will compound vapor lock. Did it include checking the idle and full throttle enrichment switches? Did you check the regulator and each injector output when it won't start, not when it's cold (Bentley 24.25-26)? It's so easy to quickly flood an engine when it fails to start immediately. Have you tried using a starter fluid (ether) when it won't start? If it starts under the ether, that indicates you probably have that vapor lock or a fuel delivery problem.
 
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ShaneM

New member
The Problem: 1991 Westy automatic won't start when the temp is below freezing. Starter cranks over and engine turns but won't run. After trying for a while, gas will leak out of a small exhaust gasket leak that I plan to fix soon. On warm days it fires right up and runs like a dream.

What I've checked so far (on a cold day = 10 deg F):

- I do get spark at the plugs

- battery and alternator have been tested and are fine

- I get continuity at the Throttle Valve Switch (Bentley 24.58 and 24.59).

- Went through the table on Bentley page 24.61 and the following things (table item #) checked out OK;

- ECU power supply (#1a and b)
- Wire to ignition coil (#2)
- Wire to fuel pump relay (#4)
- Temp 2 sensor (#6)
- Throttle valve switch (#7a and also pages 24.58 and 24.59)
- Intake air sensor potentiometer (#8a)
- Intake air temp sender (#9)

I did not check the Hall sender or O2 sensor (#10 and 11). I don't think the O2 sensor would be the problem because that doesn't come into play until the engine is warm. The hall sensor connector looked impossible to remove without repositioning the distributer and I didn't want to do that just yet. I also did not check the wire to the starter (#3) - the starter works fine.

I ran through the test for the injectors (#5 on page 24.62) and instead of getting 15-20 ohms my meter read "0.L" for each of the injectors. I don't know what that means (note that the engine will flood if I keep trying to start it - the injectors do spray).

I cleaned up the 2 grounds below the ignition coil. The one looked ok and the other was a bit corroded but I think that just runs to the tailights.

In the last 1000 miles the following things have been replaced plugs/cap/rotor/ignition wires, Temp 2 and O2 sensor, both cylinder heads, cat converter, fuel injectors, air/oil/fuel filters, fuel pump.


Any ideas? My next plan of action is to check the fuel pressure regulator and then wait for a warm day when it will start and try to find any vacuum leaks. After that I'm all out of ideas.
 

ShaneM

New member
I'll be darned. I was running oil that was too thick. Engines starts just fine now. Once I put the new coolant expansion tank and cap on I should hopefully be able to drive it again...
 

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