itional power with colder temperatures.
You've posted this as "getting spark", but are basically describing a bad battery which isn't likely to give you a strong ignition. Did you check the plugs for spark and coil output? First, I'd go to the TIPS forum and read the thread on batteries. (While you're browsing the site, also read the one on oils for winter viscosity tips.) A bad battery can take a 'surface charge' and read 12v -- even occassionally start the car. But as soon as it's asked to generate a stiff load, collapses. Do the load & specific gravity tests described there.
Did your mechanic actually TEST the alternator and regulator? If the battery tests good, they may not be properly charging and give some of your symptoms. "Shaky" & "loose" connections don't normally give your symptoms. The battery is the buffer so the engine isn't affected by those irregularities.
Since your system is FI, the need for a new fuel pump raises questions. It's not common for the electric pump in such systems to be "intermittent". (Unless, of course, they are getting intermittent power.) It may have worked through a slug of moisture or debris that would have been picked up and corrected by the removal and bench tests that should be performed before a replacement anyway.
Dashboard clocks take almost no power and not enough to drain a healthy battery overnight. The digitals take no more than a digital wristwatch and even the old dial style were usually mechanical clocks that used an electric "winder" that would only rewind the clock for a couple seconds every few hours. If it was shorted, it would not keep time or would blow fuses. I doubt there's anything wrong with it.
No offense to your mechanic, but if it's as described, it doesn't sound like proper shop procedures were followed.
'79 Westy will not start
atlantagreenwesty Junior Member # 1411 posted 06-30-2001 09:20 PM
A few days ago my bus stalled for the first time at a drive-thru, then had a hard time restarting. I got it started and then drove to work, having to keep the RPM high so it wouldn't stall. Did the same thing bringing her home. Now it won't start at all. It fires, and it hiccups hard a few times like it wants to start but won't. On the second or third try, it gets spark just won't turn over. The tailpipe came off a few weeks ago but I don't know if it would allow to much air to go back in the exhaust? Being the novice mechanic wanting to learn, I have read a lot of the posts and have ideas but still a bit confused. Any help would be great.
Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 07-01-2001 07:31 AM
When an engine is hard to start but will run at high RPMs yet not idle down or stay running, it often indicates a vacuum leak. i.e. the engine is getting too much air and the fuel-air mixture is too lean.
You also have a cold=start system (Bentley 4.2) and a thermo-time switch (Bentley 4.3) that could give similar symptoms.
clementine1980 Junior Member # 1091 posted 07-02-2001 04:41 PM
I have recently acquired my first Westy. 1980 Vanagon 2.0 fuel injected. When I purchased it the previous owner said that he had it running about 9 months ago but had not started it since then and when it did run it only ran for 30 sec. I went through and tested the MPC and all the neccessary connections seem to be there. I tested the injectors and they were not firing. The engine cranks over and has been timed correctly. I put in new points and condensor and a new Combi Relay and all of a sudden the injectors are firing. We have fire, we have spark, but the plugs are dry or barely damp after 60 sec of cranking on the engine. I am at a wall, please help...
Ignition problem
Stampy Junior Member # 999 posted 06-16-2001 10:14 AM
I have a '79 Westy with a Cali engine but the FI system is non-cali (I don't have an ignition control unit). I believe the problem is with the ignition, the engine turns over and I can hear the fuel being supplied to the engine but it doesn't start.
Within the past year (with less than 300km of driving) the following have been replaced in order
- Points
- Distributor Cap
- Spark plug wires
- Battery
- Coil
- Condenser
From the coil I have the following wires:
Terminal 15 (+)
- From aux heater blower
- To double relay
Terminal 1 (-)
- To condenser
- To AFC unit
The tests I have done and results that I found…
The coil
1. Measured 12.4 volts at terminal 15 with ignition switched on (is this too high?)
2. When cranking I get a good spark at a distance of 1/4", blue in colour but with a couple orange flashes.
3. With the engine turned so that points are closed and the ignition on
a. from terminal 1 (-) to ground reads 1.3 V (should not have a reading)
4. Used a pencil to open the points when I opened them I got a small spark.
a. from terminal 1 to ground reads 12.2 V
*NOTE: The points and the (+) side of the coil got quite hot during this test (a clue perhaps?)
The new coil is a 12V Wells it doesn't have a visible resistor but neither did the old Bosch coil.
I measured the resistance between the coil terminals and got the following readings.
1 & 15 - 1.1 ohms
1 & 4 and 4 & 15 - flashes of readings between 1300 and 1900 ohms. (not a steady reading)
The coil got really really hot one time when I was running these tests could this have fried my new coil?
The condenser
1. I took off the wire from terminal 1 (-) and with the ignition on I put my test light between terminal 15 and the wire going to the condenser. No light. So it tests ok.
Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.
Peter & Stampy (named after my fish that died, maybe that's a sign!)