Shore Power -- AC circuits


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Dave Peirce

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I need to know how to wire the 'shore power' receptacle directly to the circuit breaker, and then to the cabin sockets. (Electricity and I don't get along very well, historically, so I'm loath to wing it)
Do I ground the input as it comes into the bus and also from the breaker or sockets, or do I run the ground wire from the breaker only? I dismounted the trashed inverter when I bought the bus as well as the refrigerator - an ice box is just fine - and the whole second battery setup - stupidly didn't think, at the time, to trace out the wiring through all of the various connectors. Thanks for any help!!!

[Mod. note: Must be late Type II w/ AC-DC fridge; no other had inverter OE.]
 
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Capt. Mike

Moderator
I've posted a full set of the wiring diagrams on my pic post site linked from the home page. You should be able to decipher from them -- AC feeds the outlets FIRST.

FYI: Last I heard, the original inverter was still available from its supplier for about ¼ the VW price; have you considered putting it back in?

Without the AC fridge you can put a 2nd battery back in wired parallel to the main for double the amp-hours. Did that for a friend's '77 P22 (no fridge) and he loves it -- can really use accessories without straining the battery and lots of starting power.

Although nowdays, there are some excellent AC/DC compressor fridges and even 3-way w/ LP that use the disposable cartridges. Worth considering.
 

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Capt. Mike

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Transferred from another post to consolidate same subject.

Mexican Power

Allan Junior Member 12-03-2000 11:16 AM

My wife and I just purchased a 93 Eurovan Westphalia and are planning a trip into Mexico this winter. I'm wondering about plugging in the camper to Mexican power. Do I need a special adapter or what? This is our first experience driving to Mexico so any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated!

nobadays Junior Member 12-15-2000 09:15 PM

You won't need anything other than possibly a three prong to two prong adapter for the more remote ungrounded places you might encounter. Have fun and don't leave home without the "Church's" Camping in Mexico book... a very good listing of camping possibilities all over Mexico.

[Moderator note: photo of 3-way grounded to 2-way ungrounded adaptor attached. The metal ring screws to the center screw holding the plate to the recepticle.]

Don... "Nobadays

Electrical/camping equipment

JOHNWOLF Junior Member 03-03-2001 06:33 PM

Hello all,

I'm a proud new owner of a 1987 Westy Vanagon GL. I hope my questions is not too stupid. I was wondering if there is any danager, (ie. damage to electrical system) by hooking up to a 30 or 50 amp camp site, (with a 15 amp to 30 amp adapter used on many RV's) as Westy's come with the standard
15 amp electric cord. Thanks so much for your assistance. And I hope this was not answered somewhere else as I could not find any similar post.

Thanks again,
John

PS: This site is awesome and has been very helpful in my first six months of Westy ownership.

Jollymon Junior Member 03-04-2001 11:17 AM

The Bently on 97.33a Shows incoming power goes through the circuit breaker first thing. So overcurrent protection should be provided. I can't see that there would be any problem. Christopher
 

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Capt. Mike

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Transferred from another post to consolidate same subject.

Had new Engine put in, now refrigerator and inside outlet doesn't work.

steve g Junior Member # 1123 posted 06-17-2001 11:06 AM

Hi Folks,

I'm new to board and not terribly adept at repairs .I had a new engine put into my '91 Westy camper.Prior to this the refrigerator and the inside outlet next to it worked fine.Got my Westy back and neither worked.The van ,however, is running beautifully.My question is could this be coincidental or result of removing/replacing engine.

Thanks for any info or insights.

Best,
Steve
 
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Capt. Mike

Moderator
I'm sure coincidental. If you consult your Bentley, page 97.33, you'll see the 110 AC outlet is wired direct from the shore power connection and has no carry-over from the engine electrics. (The '91 is wired the same.)

I suppose it is possible they've tripped a breaker (circuit #3), but R&R of the egnine shouldn't take them anywhere close to the 110 AC wiring.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Transferred from another post to consolidate same topic.

Interior Electrical Receptacle

westfalia69 Junior Member # 804 posted 06-29-2001 05:03 PM

I want to run an extension cord up into my Westy via the outside receptacle . My problem is that the fusebox/masterswitch that was in the Bus originally is no longer there . Can I bypass this safely ? Any comments or suggestions would be helpful .

RichardBulis Member # 86 posted 06-30-2001 10:54 AM

Well the first step (and Cap'n Mike is getting downright hoarse in this respect ) in getting help on this site is to respect the guidelines and tell us what year/model you own. I'm guessing it's a 69 from your user name.

As to using 120v inside, my suggestion is simply to go to HomeDepot/Lowes and get the stuff you need. Typically some "12/3" romex cable and plastic remodel junction box. The location pretty much up to you. The fuse part which ( atleast on my '87 ) is located on the box cover plate may be a bit harder to track down. I would use a GFCI duplex outlet, now that they are so cheap. That would protect you better than a fuse. Just don't be plugging in something with a huge current draw. It's no different than house wiring, except you should provide a ground also through the bus chassis (while at home depot, pick up a little grounding clamp thingie,or you could solder on a ring connection and screw it to the chassis), as well as through the grounding leg in your extension cable. (from your bus outside outlet to where ever you are plugged in on shore.) Not too hard but get a residential electrician to help you see how this stuff goes together if you are unfamiliar with it.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Capt. Mike is not only getting downright hoarse about people that won't follow the site guidelines, he's taken an advanced course in curmudgeon and has now seen the previews of Grumpy Old Men III, staring him and making Walter Matheau look like a sweetie.

I'm cutting more & more posts rather than doing the moving. About 75% of them are 1st time posters that haven't read the Guidelines OR the rest of the posts on the site.

To answer your question: NO. Do not bypass the safety switches & fuse.

The 110v AC side of a Westy was all US made & supplied. The parts list of the models so equipped is still available as are the wiring diagrams. The late Type II wiring is even posted on my pics site linked from the home page.

Wiring external AC into a Westy is also no different than any of the little RV pop-up campers; parts were pretty much the same.
 

RichardBulis

New member
Since I am days away from my 50th b-day ( it's Bastille day for you Francophiles), I embrace cranky curmudgeoness with open arms.
Gumby got middle-aged and became Grumpy.

My thought about GFCI in lieu of the fuse is this: GFCI outlets ( that's ground-fault circuit interupter for the newbie ) weren't generally available until 15 years ago or so. around the time most Westies were assembled. They are now so cheap as to be ubiquitous in home construction. They have internal circuitry to detect an imbalance in the current legs passing through and if detected, opens the circuit in a micro fraction of a second, before you can receive a shock. They are required in National Building codes anywhere there is water, and thats certainly you in your westy with a sink and a stove boiling up your coffee water with and extension cord laying at your feet, which is plugged into the cabin outlet. Since you can't rely on the shore power source to have this protective device ( most RV campgrounds will/should have it on their end ) You'll be much safer if you replace this outlet with a GFCI duplex outlet. It can be wired in two ways: either to protect all "downstream" outlets ( your refridgerator for in our westy's ) OR it can be wired to protect only the outlet itself.
It has reset and test buttons right on the face of it, so you can check what's up. I think it is much safer than the fuse, which only protects current overdraw, and only a complete moron would risk plugging in his radial arm saw and/or jumbo air compresor to his cabin outlet. The risk of electrocution is much more real.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Transferred to consolidate similar topics.

Wiring system problems in 74 westy

busboy5447 Junior Member # 2962 posted 12-20-2001 09:13 PM

Hi, I just bought my first westy, a '74 pop-top. I have been going through it and found that all of the westy specific wiring has been replaced. The Control panel thing is just a piece of metal with two electrical outlets and a breaker. The fridge and sink are spliced on to old electric plugs and plugged into the panel. The second battery is gone. I plugged an extension cord into the shore power thing and nothing worked.

I'm looking for information on how to replace this all with the original or a more modern system. Where can I find wiring diagrams and other info to help with this project. Any input would be appreciated.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Posted throughout the site are references to the pics link on the home page and the technical diagrams that include the Type II camper wiring.

Those diagrams and the Battery forum posts discuss the 2nd battery. Most of the control panel issues on a '74 concern shore power supply to the fridge & AC converter. The fridge has it's own topic in the FRIDGE forum. Interior lights run off the regular vehicle system; the 2nd battery is only for the AC/DC fridge on those models so equipped.
 
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Capt. Mike

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Transferred to consolidate same topic.

Charging from 110V

dwaynestone Junior Member # 3184 posted 01-20-2002 07:41 PM

I just purchased, and am restoring a 1982 Diesel Westfalia. Is the battery supposed to charge when the van is connected to a 110V power source? I looked all through out the manual but didn't find anything about this.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
It's not in the owners manual because there is no 110 AC charger installed on an '82. If you examine your wiring diagrams 97.33 and 97.36 - 97.40 you will see no 'charger' is included. Installation of a AC/DC converter and charger is discussed elsewhere on the site.
 

Ludwig van

New member
Does anyone know why the plywood box which covers the 110V panel and wiring (under the rear bench seat in my '78) is so much bigger than the panel itself. I have the bench out right now, and I must admit I'm tempted to build a smaller box and gain some storage space. The cable in mine is the plastic- covered type used in houses (nmd?). I wonder if protecting it with metal conduit would let me get away with a smaller cover box. I can't imagine the heat buildup in there is too serious.
Any suggestions?
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Yes, it also houses the AC-DC converter with enough extra room to disipate its heat build-up. This converter is standard on the DC fridge equipped P27 models. Same box = one part number.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Taxi Junior Member posted May 23, 2002 01:20 AM

Hey all...

Just bought a '87 westy...got a quik question about electrical...when I connect the 110 volts the outlets work fine but if I go to 12 volts (battery power) it does not work is this normal...and if so do I just use a 12 volt converter...

Capt. Mike
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
i don't understand your question. Are you expecting to get 110v AC from the recepticles when you are not plugged into shore power? Please get a copy of your owner's manual and the Bentley to study the feature and wiring diagrams of the 110v AC side of the Westy equipment. There is a topic on inverters in the ACCESSORIES forum.

Capt. Mike
 

Eno

New member
Eno calling from France, can you help me? I have an 84 diesel Westy and each time I plug in the 220v shore power after about 5 minutes it trips the fuse. I haven't got a wiring diagram or the famous Bentley book. I have hooked the fridge directly to our mains 220v which works fine and doesn't trip the switch in the house. I've unplugged the connectors of the charger and then tried the 220v supply in the van again, but same problem it trips the fuse. I guess I have got a short circuit or not a very good earth somewhere, as far as I know, the only appliances in the van using 220v are the fridge and the charger. Before I start taking all the cupboards apart I am going to unplug everything and test each individual wire to find out if I have continuity (is that the word?!). Could it be that the fuse trip switch is faulty or too sensitive? Has anyone come across this problem before, I'm sure it is reasonably simple. Please give me some hints as to what would be best to check first. Thanking you, Eno
 

68fish

New member
Originally posted by Chuck (CA):

...the campground is putting out 30 amps...Westy is rated for 15 amps...how do you reduce the amps coming in?
Amps are a product of demand. You can plug into a 10,000 amp service but you won't get 10,000 amps into your Van unless you use an appliance that demands 10,000 amps. So leave your proton accelerator at home and you'll be fine.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Your Westy has a built-in circuit breaker for the AC side to prevent AC draw from exceeding the rated load. The fridge AC mode draws after this circuit breaker. See your owner manual/camper supplement and Bentley 97.33. You're Westy AC is a grounded circuit; please don't attempt to defeat that. You may want to carry a faster surge protector strip (with GFCI) for electronics or sensitive accessories.
 
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