Manual Transmission problems


debbiej

New member
the other day, as we were leaving for a camping trip, our 84 manual 4 spd. would not shift out of reverse. My husband was in the driver's seat, we rolled back, he never forced or ground the gears, just wiggled the stick around, and finally it came out of reverse. we went on our trip, just made sure we never had to back up. everything else was fine.

when we got home,before we even got out of the westy, he put it into reverse and it came out just fine. he went through several gears, and in and out of reverse all was fine. today as I was driving to work, I had a little trouble getting it into first after stopping at a stop sign. the stick wasn't hard to move, it was just like there was no place to put the stick for 1st. I started in second, because of traffic behind me. later I carefully went through the gears, including reverse in the parking lot. no problem there or when I had to drive around in town on lunch for some errands. clutch seems fine, and when it works it feels normal. our thought is linkage, but why so sporadic? thanks in advance for any help.

after looking at the Bentley I'm wondering if the fact that we had dropped the spare tire and repaired some wiring could have 'bumped' something. since it is intermittant and happened after putting the tire back into place... just a thought.

I think the tire was off center in the pan that holds it, and was somehow hindering movement of the shift rod. I don't know if that is possible, but I'm glad it is shifting normally.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

HappyCampers

New member
No Shifting while running

Great Site!

Everyone here has provided so much great info, Thanks Cap'n Mike!

I have a quick clutch/ tranny question. Our 1980 air cooled westy has been running great. We are approaching 100k and all maintenence is up to date. This morning I went to start her up and I couldn't shift while the engine was running, I could shift fine with the engine off. I can start in any gear or reverse and the clutch works fine, just can't shift in or out of gear while running. I haven't seen anyone with a similar post, my apologies if I missed it.

Thanks for the input
 

debbiej

New member
I'll be watching your post for answers, because sadly, my van won't shift out of reverse again. tomorrow being saturday, we will check a few things as shown in the Bently manual and some websites, since It is such an intermitant problem. It shifted easily and precicely for several days, then this morning I backed it out and it got stuck in neutral. the shift lever moves around, but the van does does not come out of reverse gear.
 

HappyCampers

New member
Sorry to hear about your Westy, it has to be something small. Everything was fine yesterday... I almost feel lucky it's in my drive:) I am sure someone has dealt with this before.
 

Greta's Driver

New member
Hard to shift into 1st and 2nd in cold weather.

Hi all, I'm hoping this is an easy one. It's getting cold here in Salt Lake and it's hard to shift into 1st and 2nd for about 10-15 minutes when I first start driving. 3rd and 4th are normal even when its freezing. Any ideas on how to fix this or is it normal? Its a 1991 Westy with a brand new clutch about 1000 miles ago.

Thanks,


Matt

[Moderator note: See also all posts on types of fluid & changes.]
 
Last edited by a moderator:

vw-traveller

New member
1979 Westy manual transmission.

I have had gearoil leaking into the bellhousing for 2 weeks now, and now i just got a new rear driveshaft oil seal.
The Bentley manual shows pictures with the driveshaft removed. Do i have to take off the bellhousing to do this?
Main concern is that the drive shaft seems to have about 1/4 inch play. (which I guess could have damaged the seal?) Is it normal for the driveshaft to have some play?

Also drove about a hundred miles with possibly low transmission oil, should i just bring the tranny into a transmission place? I was really hot when i got home.

So I was unable to get the old seal out without taking off the bellhousing, so I removed tranny, took off bellhousing and pounded out the old seal from behind.
I think the 1/4 inch play on the tranny's driveshaft is ok, I realized my pilot bearing was toast, which was most likely teh reason for the seal's failure....
 
Last edited by a moderator:

MattRiff

New member
Just got an 83 Westy 4-speed manual (water cooled) about a month ago with over 160k mile (I don't know exactly since the odometer is broken). It has a rebuilt engine and seems to drive great. My only problem is that I have a tough time finding 1st gear. I get it eventually but it have difficulty especially during a slow roll. Is this common of westys or a sign of of possibly bigger transmission problem?
 

DanWVW

New member
Help? Can anyone tell me about the 1971 vs the 1970 Transaxles. I put a 70 transaxle into my 71 Camper Bus last summer but the Throw-Out Bearing or something is scraping and howling when I put the clutch petal down all the way. It works but one mechanic said that I needed to change the bell housing to the 71 and another told me I needed to change the pilot shaft. The parts manual shows that the Clutch design changed as well as the Throw-Out. Could I just install a 1970 Clutch instead of doing anything to the Transaxle?
 

dburnson

New member
88 Vanagon Manual Transmission Grinding Noise

Hello all, I just wanted to re-affirm what Captain Mike has been saying. I have an 88 vanagon with 202000 miles on it, and the manual tranny is still kickin'. I still have to troubleshoot some shifting issues, and I need to check the linkage, but it hasn't gotten stuck in 3rd or 4th like Gowesty says will happen at 150000 miles.
The issues that I am having are different than anything I've seen on here. The tranny will shift well before it gets warm. When it has warmed up, it starts to grind into every gear. I can't "feel" the grinding in the gear shifter, but I can hear a grinding noise and I'm not sure what is happening. The master and slave cylinders are not leaking, and I believe the clutch has been replaced within the last 10000 miles. There is a leak at the front of the tranny from the shift rod bushing area, and the oil has some metal in it, but is full and in otherwise good condition.
I am concerned about what will happen if I were to continue driving without finding and resolving the problem.
Thanks,
Daniel
 

scotsborn

New member
Hi Daniel, first thing I would suggest is to try and figure out if the clutch is releasing the way it should. If you can get the rear wheels in the air, with the clutch pedal engaged (pushed to the floor) in gear see if the rear wheels turn. If they do, it suggests that your clutch plate is sticking on the gearbox input shaft. If you can see the shaft inside the bell housing you can CAREFULLY spray some lubricant onto the splines then push the clutch in and out a few times. If your issues subside (possibly only for a little while) then that would be the direction to go in. It will mean pulling the engine or gearbox and figuring out why the clutch plate does not move freely. On second thoughts, I'd try and bleed the clutch system to make sure there is no air in there. If you can get some air out of the system then try again and see if your issue gets better.

If you know the clutch has been replaced in the last 10000 miles then can you get a list of the part numbers that were used during the replacement? This might give a clue as to whether the correct parts were used or not.

The metal leaking from the transmission; can you tell if the metal in it is silver or gold in color? If it is silver then it suggests that there may be a bearing failure and if it is a gold'ish color then it would suggest the synchro (baulk) rings are worn. If there is a small amount of gold'ish I would not be overly concerned as some wear over the years is to be expected. If it is a lot then that might explain the grinding although if it was synchro rings I would expect you would feel it through the shifter when shifting.

Let us know your progress.
 

DanWVW

New member
Hi Daniel, first thing I would suggest is to try and figure out if the clutch is releasing the way it should. If you can get the rear wheels in the air, with the clutch pedal engaged (pushed to the floor) in gear see if the rear wheels turn. If they do, it suggests that your clutch plate is sticking on the gearbox input shaft. If you can see the shaft inside the bell housing you can CAREFULLY spray some lubricant onto the splines then push the clutch in and out a few times. If your issues subside (possibly only for a little while) then that would be the direction to go in. It will mean pulling the engine or gearbox and figuring out why the clutch plate does not move freely. On second thoughts, I'd try and bleed the clutch system to make sure there is no air in there. If you can get some air out of the system then try again and see if your issue gets better.

If you know the clutch has been replaced in the last 10000 miles then can you get a list of the part numbers that were used during the replacement? This might give a clue as to whether the correct parts were used or not.

The metal leaking from the transmission; can you tell if the metal in it is silver or gold in color? If it is silver then it suggests that there may be a bearing failure and if it is a gold'ish color then it would suggest the synchro (baulk) rings are worn. If there is a small amount of gold'ish I would not be overly concerned as some wear over the years is to be expected. If it is a lot then that might explain the grinding although if it was synchro rings I would expect you would feel it through the shifter when shifting.

Let us know your progress.
Thanks for the reply about the Clutch. I solved the problem a few months ago by pulling the engine and changing the bell housing and throw-out bearing to the correct one for the clutch in the 1971. It was fairly simple, easier than I thought. Everything fit just fine. Oil in the transaxle was clean. The wrong 1970 bell housing and the throw-out bearing clips had warn into the 1971 pressure plate diaphragm and were doing a number on it but it was still functional. The 1971 bus uses a clutch cable which needed a considerable backing off adjustment with the correct set-up.
The engine had excessive end-play at the crank so I pulled the fly-wheel and was able to take most of the play out with different shims although I think the flywheel main bearing is moving in the engine case as I could not totally eliminate the problem. I had this problem with it before I rebuilt it 25000 miles and some years ago. I think the case a Mexico after-market case is one of those bad ones so I found a good used AE case so I can rebuild the engine some time in the future. The bus is back on the road and we had a wonderful camping trip in it to Astoria after the repairs.
 

Top