Fridge lighting, regulator and manometer questions


New member
I know this sort of think is a FAQ, and I've spent some hours researching, but haven't found the solution...

My fridge was lighting well, but it seemed that only half of the fins inside would cool, so it was not working well. Wouldn't cool well on electric, either. Brought it in to the local RV shop. They pulled it, did a full cleaning, and returned it to me. I put it on 110v and it cooled off well. On a road trip, the fridge would not light. Brought it back to the shop, and they had a hard time figuring out the cause. Concluded the regulator pressure was off, adjusted it, and gave it back to me. Doesn't light.

There's spark, although it now seems to be intermittent.

Sometimes there's a big pop as a bunch of gas ignites. Postings describe this as a air supply problem. I've tried supplementing by blowing in the condensation drain pipe and using an air pump. That gives me a pop or apparent ignition that doesn't keep going.

So, I messed around with the adjustment of the regulator, with the "dial" under the plastic cap. I've gotten it to the point that flame will stay light while I hold the bypass (button next to the right of the plunger/igniter). But, the flame is very weak, and will go out in less than a minute when I release the bypass. The LED on the panel barely lights up.

Do you think all of this is due to a faulty regulator?

By the way, the regulator, which I got from one of the Westy supply shops, is a Marshall 605H. It has the vent facing forward instead of down. They say that's not a problem. I know it's not involved in this, at least not directly, but I wanted to mention it.

Another question: the stove flames are good. There's a separate supply hose for that, right? The stove flame quality doesn't imply that the fridge flame quality will be good, right? The fridge line could be blocked while the stove line is clear?

Also, I'm going to make a manometer. I haven't seen mention that the setting is dependent on air pressure. I'm at 6,000' elevation. Does this cancel out in the equation regarding the pressure of the gas? In other words, the pressure is lower to achieve 11" of water, but it doesn't matter because less pressure is needed to operate the fridge. Or, should one correct for altitude?

Thanks so much for your help!
I am at 7300'. I would say the pressure would be lower at altitude to get the 11" but, what about the thermocouple? That is what will create the power too hold the valve open and to light the indicator.


New member
Yes, I think I need to check that, the thermocouple. I need to do all this work myself; too much for the shop to do. Sure is a complicated little system!
Seems so at first, but really pretty simple. Do you have the documentation? Available online. Once you get the hang of how it all works, it is easy. Not to say you can make it work perfect, it is too simple to work perfect.

Have you dismantled the burner box yet? That is a good fix area, stuff gets in there and disturbs the flame, rust, dirt etc. Make sure it is clean, make sure you get the gsket sealed well. Good luck. Oh, on eBay one of the restorers sells a takeout that was working when removed for $25 plus shipping, comes out less than $100. Good to either replace, OR use for supply of all good parts. Cheaper than buying the parts themselves.


New member
Wow, time flies when I don't work on my Westy. :)

I've finally pulled the refrigerator out for the first time. First off, I want to ask about the location of the thermocouple. I read that it should be attached to a fin. Is that right? Seems like that would get hot. Mine is smushed onto the back of the fridge. Here's a photo.


New member
Next, I want to ask if the thermocouple in the burn box looks okay. Here's a photo.



  • burn box thermocouple.jpg
    burn box thermocouple.jpg
    85.4 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:


New member
Optional air modification?

I'd also like to ask about the optional air modification that's described in my shop manual. It involves drilling out the nozzle in the air piston on the left side of the control panel, and also adding a one-way valve. I've read that it's a last resort. Is that one-way valve available? Is this worth doing?

Thanks for your help!


New member
The fan on the back of the fridge... it seems like the bearings are not good. How can I test it? I don't have a 12v supply handy. Would it work to connect it up to a trickle charger? If I were to replace it, would I need to get the part from Dometic? Thanks!



New member
burn box holes

One more thing I wanted to mention. I found that the burn box has a bunch of holes drilled in it. Then, taped over with heat-resistant tape. Strange. Is this normal?


New member
Burn box gasket?

What do people do to fashion a gasket for between the six-screw burner cover and the burner base? I found one place that says they are no longer available. Others don't list it.



New member
My 89 Westy fridge has worked for the last 12 years, but last weekend, after filling (2.5 gallons) with propane and parking in a lovely green valley, the fridge would not light. Normally (at night) I can see the "spark" in the little round viewing hole in the bottom left hand side of the interior of the fridge when I push in the left hand pump/knob. But this time there is no spark.

I have performed all the tricks - lighting a burner, pumping fresh air into the drain hole, but no luck. I turned everything off, then on again and started afresh, but still no spark is visible (and the fridge is NOT lighting). Is it possible that the "spark mechanism" is broken or worn out? But the last time I used the fridge, about 5 months ago, the spark was very strong and there was not indication it was wearing out. Thanks for any and all ideas!