Electrical draw 67 bus


John Quandt

New member
I have an electrical draw that I am at a loss. I have checked all the usual places such as grounding in starter, alternator, ignition, pulled all fuses. I have about 6.8 draw even after I have disconnected pretty much everything possible. Is it common that there may be chaffing on the harness in the body? If so is pulling new wires difficult? I feel this is very unlikely but it is the only place I cannot access. I checked voltage regulator as well. In theory if I have the battery disconnected at + and jump that with my volt meter and everything is off there should be no draw does that seem right?
 

scotsborn

New member
This post is old but I will write a few things in the hope that future readers will obtain some good information.

'Draw' is amperage and not voltage. When checking for a draw then your meter should be on 'amps' and not 'volts'. If you have a component drawing current then either that component will operate (bulb will be on, motor will move etc.) or you will generate heat. The electricity consumed by the component must be changed into something so either work is done or heat is generated as the current flows. Best way to locate a draw is to pull the fuses and when the draw stops then you have identified the defective circuit. If you pull the fuses and the draw remains then you have identified that the issue is not on a fused circuit. This (usually) limits your choices to alternator or starter circuits. If there was 'chaffing' in the harness then the electricity would flow from one exposed wire to another and cause that circuit to be energized and operate. If it goes to ground then the fuse blows due to the fact that if there is no limiting resistor in the circuit then as much amperage as is in the battery will try to flow.

In this case there is a 6.8A draw so we can eliminate a dead short to ground. Now we are looking for a component that limits the current to 6.8A. I would disconnect the voltage regulator and check draw. If it goes to 0 then the issue lies there and if it stays at 6.8A then the issue is not on that circuit. Work your way around the electrical system and note when the component is disconnected and the draw is eliminated. Be careful because most meters have a 10A fuse that will blow if you try and start the vehicle.

So, systematically work around and find the wire that when disconnected causes the ammeter to show 0.
 

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