Distribution module, fuses and wiring harnesses


New member
I have been chasing wires around my 85 Westy for a week cleaning and changing things as I hope to fend off suprise failures...

I found a relay and a two wire pair under the driver seat and can not find a referance to then in Bentley's.. which I do not find to be the most user friendly manual I have ever read but I am told it is the best available... I have been working with wiring and diagrams around the farm since I was a boy but I cannot make out what these are about.. I am hoping someone who has made this particular wiring journey can give me directions....

The two wire pair has come unstuck and on the side that is not color coded... Is there a need for proper polarity in this circuit... The only one way connector make me think that is a possibility... but the wires have broked free of the connector

Please advise
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Capt. Mike

Under the seat, there are a couple of wiring sets. One with a double connector is for the seat-belt warning. It has (my '90) a gray/red & a gray on one side, and 2 browns on the other. There is also the wiring to the relay for the fridge. Try to find that in your Bentley wiring diagram and see if it doesn't lead you to the symbol for that double connector.

Wiring for the fridge relay is also in the Bentley in the camper equipment section.

Capt. Mike

Transferred from other posts to consolidate similar topics.

Fuse Chart 83.5 Westy

Ruth Neslund Member # 100 posted 09-23-2000 11:36 PM

My $80.00 Robert Bentley manual does not have a chart to tell me what each fuse controls on my 83.5 Westy. Can anyone help? I'm trying to diagnose which fuse controls the right headlight. I bought a new headlight after the old one quit working in the dim setting. The new bulb has the same problem, so I suspect the fuse. Visually, all the fuses look solid and unbroken. Feel free to email me at

shelbydana@flashmail.com. Thanks.

Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 09-24-2000 07:26 AM

Actually, it does -- just not in the cute table with picture like the old Type II manual. You will also find a listing of fuses in your owners manual.

Since you said '83½, I assume it's the early watercooled. Page 97.56 in the Bentley shows your headlight wiring. Circuit 40 is the right headlight, low beam. You'll find it feeds off fuse S4 just above.

Since you are getting power, the fuse is probably OK though worth checking for corrosion and tightness of connections. Other causes: old or bad wiring; a previous repair with too small wiring; a partial ground between fuse & light; someone has tapped that circuit for something else and is 'borrowing' power; or you have a bad ground. All are potentially dangerous & a fire hazard. Nothing should be on the headlight circuits because their power consumption is already near maximum for the switches & wiring.

I'd start with the ground -- if only because it's easiest. You can jump ground it near the light. The harness's ground goes to connector #10 behind the dash. If not there, measure voltage at the light with a voltmeter (should be 12+v) and then work backwards. If low, you can work backwards to find the last "good" power.

Since the left is OK, it's unlikely it's the dimmer switch -- it feeds the fuse box before it splits to left & right.

There's a nice primer on pages 97.2-97.6 about using the schematic style wiring diagrams. I won't say they are 'user friendly' but the do have all the necessary info including size & color of wire
Ruth Neslund Member # 100 posted 09-24-2000 10:45 AM

Thanks. I would actually prefer the cute table as the original owner's manual did not come with the vehicle. I think I can figure out the diagrams on p. 97.56.

Accidental Grounding

Mark84, Junior Member 09-25-2000 12:02 PM

I have a 1984 Westphalia. I originally had a problem with my temp gauge reading high and was checking the temp sensor positive lead for corrosion, I think I accidentally grounded the wire while taking it off the sensor. The gas gauge and temp gauge and warning light now do not work. There is no voltage to ground on the sensor wire as expected. All fuses are good under the dashboard, I checked the voltage balance circuit behind the dashboard and it reads 10.45 volts per manual. There must be a hidden fuse I'm not finding some where. I have a manufacturers manual and can not correlate the fuse # to a location on the van. Appreciate any help on trouble shooting this problem.

Capt. Mike, Moderator 09-25-2000 07:42 PM

Fuse locations are listed in your owner's manual.

However, in the wiring diagram, the fuses are numbered S#. That usually is the left-to-right sequence in the fuse holder.

There are a couple of fuses above the holder with all the relays.

Multiple Accessory Problems

Geo Junior Member # 282 posted 10-17-2000 02:45 PM

I am a new owner (five months) of a 1990 Westy. Since I purchased my Westy I have noticed several instruments not functioning properly. specifically my intermittent winshield wipers, power mirrors, and cruise control. I am wondering if they may be connected (they all usue the same fuse) or they are all seperate headaches. Any thoughts? Thanks

Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 10-17-2000 09:34 PM

I'd say they are unrelated, although you may have some common power feed problems to the power panel.

First, your windshield wipers are not on the same fuse as your accessories. See Bentley wiring diagram 97.135. They feed off #S11.
Cruise, diagram 97.175, feeds off #S18 and mirrors, diagram 97.186, feed off #S12.

Since cruise & electric mirrors were not standard equipment on all models, it stands to reason they are independent systems.

When electrical gremlins strike, there is no quick cure except to begin the painstaking check-out starting from the power source. Use a test light and follow the circuit to see where your power stops functioning.

Bumps cause lost electrical power

zhaoyue, Junior Member, 12-08-2000 01:25 AM

Hi, VW fan,

My Westfalia finally give up after few months of on and off of power of audio, fan and wiper. At frist, when the audio gone with a click sound, it will come back after I hit a bumper on the road. For my recently trip from Grant Canyon, I here a lot of click sounds then everything gone. I am glad I am luck in the dry area, otherwise the wiper is a must. I use to think it may simply some problem in fuse wire, but did not find anything wrong wire.

Do any one have similiar problem or experience? What can I do? I have the Offical VW Manue, but can not locate the problem there.

Should I conside to re do the wire for my 26 years old van (I plan to keep it for a long while)? Or any simple solution? Any suggestion are appreciate!

Oliver, the wire
Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 12-08-2000 12:12 PM

What year? A '74? Always give full year & model information.

In a '74, the radio is fed from fuse #7, independent of the ignition. Only accessories are on the fuse, so any failure is either feed to the fuse, or more likely from your symptoms, a ground or short in the radio or antenna.

The wipers feed off fuse #10, an ignition controlled fuse. Does your rear defroster work? If so, the problem is in the wipers. If both are out, I'd start checking to see if you are getting power when the ignition is on. The electrical side of the ignition switch is independent of the key/lock side. They do wear and can lose contact. Though you should notice other symptoms like headlights and other ignition on accessories also quiting.

The heater blower has its own in-line fuse located in the engine compartment. It's controlled by a relay that gets its trigger current via a ground contact on the heater lever. When the heater is on full, it engages the relay.

Sorry, there is no short cut for electrical problems. Go to your Bentley manual wiring diagrams Setion 3-14.B and trace each circuit with a test light or volt-ohm meter until you find the failure. Unless someone has really screwed up the wiring, the 3 accessories are independent. When in doubt, go back to the factory scheme; it was pretty good and well balanced.

VW's original wiring was of good quality so I don't recommend replacing the entire harnesses (besides cost). Replace only those sections that have damage, fray or show signs of overheating and corrosion. Perhaps it's only a connector. Typically, only the high amp wiring deteriorates signficantly over time. Items like fans, starter & solenoid, perhaps headlights are the kind of circuits that draw high power and will affect the wiring long term. You can test an individual wire with a digital ohm meter. Go to the ends (between connectors) of each section. They should all read near 0 ohms. Anything over a 10th ohm or so may have a bad connector or corrosion.

ALWAYS use at least the original gauge wire to replace, and retain color coding. Your model diagram indicates gauge in sq-mm., but there is a conversion chart to US gauge posted elsewhere on this site. You may have to go to a specialty electronics supply store instead of an automotive place to order the correct color-coded wire, but if you don't, you'll face a nightmare every time you have an electrical problem.

Capt. Mike help me!

Luke J. Schneider (ljs2b@mtsu.edu), 1/6/99 (6:43 PM)

When I bought my Westy the only thing electrical that worked was, thankfully, the headlights and the interior light when the passenger door was open. The fuel gage was going haywire. The fuses were replaced by a good aircooled mechanic and he said everything was working fine (wipers, signals, etc). Once on the road I found that the wipers didn't work, the signals cut off when the brakes are applied, the interior light doesn't come on at all, and fuel gage is fine. Have any experience with similar symptoms? The fuses are all fine. Thanks in advance.


Capt. Mike Soehnlein, 1/13/99 (10:24 PM)

You don't say what year/model Westy, but you have inherited what is common with used VW's -- previous owner was an idiot syndrome.

I can only suggest you go to the Bentley manual wiring diagram and start with the basic tracing. For example; in the interior light circuit, power runs from the designated fuse (shop & owner's manual have fuse charts), through the light and then to the door switch, which grounds the circuit, completeing it, when the door is open. Go to the light and see if the power is coming that far, using a test light. If not -- problem is at or before fuse. If power is there, then see if grounding at the other side of the light works. If so -- problem is the ground wire or door jamb switch.

The same principle works for everything else. Turn signals use the same rear bulb filiment as brakes. When brakes go on, the bright of the "on" signal side goes through the turn signal circuit so it flashes on & off, even though the brake is on. I'd guess someone has wired it backwards.

Instruments are a little more complex, but the gas gauge works on a principle similar to the interior light. It does have a volatage stabilizer, but still, power goes through the guage, to the sender, and then to ground. The amount of resistance varies by float level, generating the signal that determines gauge readings.

Start by getting everything back to factory. The basic VW wiring plan is pretty sound, and even has a designated spare circuit for accessories like the radio.

One thing I have experienced is that the ignition switch controls several circuits. The obvious ignition and starter items, but also the one power supply line to the fuse box that provided "ignition on only" power to such items as wipers, headlights, fans, etc. The switch was not closing that circuit so I had almost no supplemental circuits, even though the ignition and engine ran fine. The only solution is to change the electric side of the ignition switch -- not the key lock side.

Good luck; electrical gremlins are tough to track down.

Capt. Mike

Rain...snap, crackle, pop

feefoo, Junior Member, 08-05-2000 07:24 PM

I have an 87 Westy that keeps blowing the fuse for the wipers and rear heaters.
It does it when it's raining and I finally witnessed rain actually dripping in on my feet last time this happened - I was driving up and incredibly steep hill in a torrential downpour. The fuse blew, and not only that I lost all power and rolled to a stop. I had to sit there for 10 mintues with the key on and the front heater blasted to dry out the wet spot - fortunately it stopped raining by that point.

Anyhow, where should I look to find the water leak? And how? Is it reasonable to assume the stall out was caused by the water as well? I have the harness installed, so it's not that.

Thanks for any help!

Capt. Mike, Moderator, 08-05-2000 08:38 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
I have an 87 Westy that keeps blowing the fuse for the wipers and rear heaters. It does it when it's raining . . .<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Fuses don't blow from rain, they blow from short ciruits or overloads. If everything works fine when dry, I'm going to GUESS water is getting into the wiper motor and shorting it out. Of course anything else on the fuse goes out to.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Anyhow, where should I look to find the water leak? And how? Is it reasonable to assume the stall out was caused by the water as well? I have the harness installed, so it's not that.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The usual places for leaks in the front cabin are the windshield seal and the fresh-air intake. How? Painstakingly slow. Sometimes you get luck by putting a bright light up under the dash and looking from the outside in a darkened shop. Dealers have an ultrasound device they use. You can sometimes find it with compressed air. But most of the time, it's drying everything out, then spraying with a hose. Don't be too quick to assume where it's dripping FROM is where it's leaking; the water often travels a considerable distance before dropping out.

The harness, presuming you mean the Vanagon Syndrom fix, should not be related to not starting. Read the post elsewhere; that's a running/trottle transition problem that resets with every ignition off.

Blown Heater Fan Fuse Shuts Down Engine

Ruth Neslund Member # 100 posted 02-24-2001 11:11 AM

I recentlty replaced the 8amp heater fan fuse with a 25 amp fuse. The 8 amp fuse would blow within 60 seconds of running the fan on my 83 1/2 westy. The real bummer was losing all power including lights. While the 25 amp fuse allows me to use the heater fans (forward and aft) I'm surprised that the heater fan fuse would be shared with critical systems.

zadar Member # 490 posted 02-25-2001 09:55 AM

Are you sure your blower motors are in OK shape? The fuse transplant seems to be taking care of a symptom not the real problem. Put the original speced fuse back in and trace the location of the excessive amp draw.

good luck
johnny t

Switch on Dash function?

knussear Junior Member # 837 posted 05-28-2001 10:28 AM


I just got a 1984 westy. It has a switch on the dash, upper left above the lighting switches. It illuminates red when switched and makes a relay in the right rear click, somewhere near what looks like a separation junction for power or an inverter or something. Does anyone have a clue as to what this does?

Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 05-30-2001 07:22 PM

Go to your dealer and ask to look at the parts fiche for your year and model to see if you can find it. I suspect you'll find it's some previous owner's home-made rig as I don't remember any Vanagons with a switch above the light switch.

Knob under seat?

VW_Boy72 Junior Member # 893 posted 06-02-2001 10:28 PM

I own a 1972 Westy and have been wondering for quite so time now what the knob under the driver seat does.It's black and is mounted on the wheel well.

Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 06-03-2001 09:17 AM

The wiring diagram for your model is in the Bentley section 4-14.C. Switch E9 is the most logical possibility; check the wiring diagram to see if the color coding and routing match. If not, I'd presume it was some aftermarket installation by a previous owner.

medicin777 Member # 663 posted 06-04-2001 02:39 PM

I've got the same year Westy with that same knob. It was a control knob to the auxillary gas heater I removed some time ago. I'm pretty sure it worked as a timer. If you don't have a gas heater anymore, it's not that hard to remove.

Capt. Mike

The following is transferred in from the old Archives. Sorry, they are not in any particular order and it was not practical to include the authors or posting dates.

Electrical problems 1969

I was driving down the street this week in my newly acquired '69 Westy and everything cut out, dash warning lights, engine, signals etc. The fuse closest to the passenger side (blue) had blown, replaced and new one blew also. Towed home to check it out and couldn't find anything. This fuse goes to the ignition switch light switch etc. and when it is removed all ignition quits. Replaced fuse again after looking, poking and wiggling without finding anything, replaced fuse and everything works. Any clues as to where to look for the problem? What are the right fuse values/colours for this year van?

Answer: Fuse types and locations are given in the Bentley factory shop manual at the beginning of section 4. Fuze locations are section 4.3.

The wiring diagram for you car is diagram F.
You obviously have a short, but location requires chasing down with a test light and/or ohm-meter.

Location of A/C Fuse/Relay Panel in 86 Westy Syncro

Can someone tell me where to find the A/C fuse/relay panel in an 86 Westy Syncro? The Bently book claims "behind the left rear "C or D" pillar covers, & I've gone as far as slitting the material at the back of the rear cabinet, and found ony the hoses attached the the evaporator.

Answer: IN the closet, behind the vertical channel. You must remove the shelves first, then the two little angle brackets that hold the verticle section in place. Upon removing this vertical channel, you will find a large bracket holding relays and fuze mounted against the quarter panel

Notice & warning. The fuse for the A/C is a 40A sold metal 'buss bar' style, held in place with two screws. It gets very hot, enough to start a fire. Be sure you don't leave anything touching it when replacing panels. Second, the heating and cooling of the fuse can work the screws loose. Use Lock-Tite or similar thread sealer. I'd consider replacing with a covered ATO style if doing any major repairs in there, making sure I used appropriate gauge wire for that 40 Amps. My parents had a fire in there Vanagon back there from just that source. It melted everything, all traceable to the hot spot at the fuse.

I have an 86 syncro non westy, a 93 Eurovan Westy MV Weekender. Do most the the repairs on all myself. The relays are located in the engine bay under the D pillars, these are the back ones. The over head unit houses the evaporater and has 3 bolts on each side it is quite heavy. Don't know if there any parts up there. I also have removed the outside grills on the back pillars The duck bills get plugged on the drain tubes and the evaporator pan gets full and dumps water all over the rear seats through the overhead duct. Just follow the freon tubes from the compressor and you should find the relays.

Blower fuse questions.

We just bought an '82 Vanagon. The blower fan doesn't work...and the fuse is missing. Upon investigating, found the fuse is longer than the shortest one we have and shorter that the longest one...went to several parts stores and they just looked at us... Its a 16 amp...is it a dealer part only? There aren't any VW dealers near our home...any advice?


I'm a little confused at your description of length. VW used only 2 fuses in the Vanagon. (I'll correct myself in a minute.) The standard fuse for in-line style connections is the ceramic style which are all the same size. The 16A is red. All have exposed metal strip running between the end caps.

The other is the ATO blade style fuze. It's flat, encased in plastic, and has two metal tabs to plug into a matching socket.
Both are available at most auto parts stores, but aren't all that expensive at a dealership. They ceramics were standard in Porsche, MBenz, Audi and most other European vehicles.

VW did have a few in-line fuse holders -- including the heater blower -- that used the ceramic style. If you are finding your holder doesn't work with the one-size ceramic, it's probably been changed by a previous owner. Scrap the holder and start over with the correct unit -- you don't want to be carrying several types of spares on top of the various amperages required.
VW did use a couple of fuseable links, a circuit breaker or two, and occasionaly a US style glass fuse, but they were almost always in the A/C or radio circuits, which are supplied by outide vendors. Not likely in the OE blower circuit.

Fuse order?

I just got a 71 westy a while ago. There are no fuses in the fuse box, they were all taken out before the van was taken to my place. I think that the person I was bought it from was planning on replacing them for me and never got around to it. I cant find any diagrams in books, or on the net. I know that they are all 8 and 16 amps, but I dont know which goes where.

Fuse locations & sizes are listed in the owners manual; there are numerous postings on locating missing manuals but start at your dealer.

Fuse locations & sizes are also listed in the Bentley manual; copies may be purchased from the link on the home page of this site.

Capt. Mike

Transferred from another post to consolidate similar topics.

75 VW Turn signal & Flasher relay - Where Is It?

Steve in Toronto Junior Member # 1831 posted 10-11-2001 12:27 PM

I have a 75 VW Bus that the turn signal and flasher relay needs to be relaced. I will only have this vehicle until my mechanic can replace it with something I can drive everyday. He would like to replace the turn signal flasher relay on this vehicle but can't find it and i was hoping anyone with a Bently on this year could direct me as to where I can find it as I can not make any turn signals. Thanks in advance for all your help guys.

Capt. Mike

Per Bentley (a site requirement) section 4-9, the relay is often blamed for failures caused by other defects. Checking several things are suggested before testing the relay. The cost of this relay suggests you test before replacing -- the problems could be elsewhere. Location is shown in section 4-8.3, fig. 8-7 and described in 4-9 under "Replacing Turn Signal/. . .."

Capt. Mike

Transferred to consolidate same topic.

smhyde Junior Member posted August 05, 2002 11:55 AM

I have a 1991 Westy Multivan, and the owner's manual mentions these additional fuses in separate holders, above the fuse box ...

>10 amp - instrument lighting
>10 amp - overheating fuse for aux heater
>20 amp - main fuse for aux heater
>20 amp - central door locks
>20 amp - automatic fuse for power windows

Can anyone tell me which slots/locations these are located in? Does "above the fuse box" mean the slots above the standard row of fuses, or actually above the black fuse box itself? If the latter, then what are the square-numbered fuses for that are on the fuse box above the standard row of fuses?

thanks, sean

Capt. Mike

Although there is a basic "fuses Arrangement" chart in the Bentley, my page 97.119, in reality it's kind of useless. The add-on fuses and relays above the fuse box seem to have been stuck in rather randomly during assemble. And since your '91 was actually assembled by Steyr-Daimler-Puch in Austria from a '90 manufactured KD unit, it's even less likely to follow the diagram. Go back to basics, follow your wiring diagram backwards from the item and use the color codes to get to the back of the relay or fuze box in question. Most of the items you mention will be in the add-on fuses and relays above the main distribution box.


New member
I have an '80 Vanagon Westy that has a short in it that appears to be only when the vehicle is running. I am pretty good at chasing down shorts, but thought I would put this out in case anyone has a clue for me to start looking. I had the charging system checked out and it is charging.

Capt. Mike

What other symptoms? Gradually dieing of the battery or immediate blowing of fuses?

If it only occurs while the vehicle is running, you should be able to isolate it to the circuits that are only on when the ignition switch is on -- circuits #30-40. An unfused circuit does run up to feed the fuel pump relay (circuit #22), which in turn feed the FI system cold start system.

An inductive ammeter is one of the best diagnostic tools for that purpose; you just lay the ammeter's pick-up channel on the suspected wire.


New member
Thanks for the info on the circuits to check. I have done some more research on the paperwork which came with the van and it seems that the previous owner purchased a second battery relay kit from BusDepot and since I can't find it I wonder if he installed it incorrectly and it is shorting to ground. I will let you know. Thanks. Fred

Capt. Mike

In Vanagon Westies, the relay was already installed (for the fridge) under & behind the driver's seat. Since it works fine for the auxiliary battery -- it's the same one that is installed factory in other markets, I don't know why people buy kits from Bus Depot. Good possibility, though. Since he didn't know about the relay, he might not have known how to wire it. Diagrams on the tech drawings link.


New member
I have an 85 Westy and have spent the past couple of hours trying to figure out how to temporarily disconnect the clock so I can troubleshoot a battery discharge (possible current draw)as instructed in the Bentley manual 27.10. The owner's manual does not identify which fuse is for the clock. The Bentley manual seems to indicate that #S13 is the fuse that the clock is on, if I am reading the wiring diagram right. I cannot find the #S13 fuse. The fuse box ends at 12 and to the right of it are 3 ATO blade fuses. Then to the right of them and under the steering column cover, there are 2 more ceramic fuses. I have taken out all 17 fuses just in case something wasn't labeled right or were add ons and none of them seem to control the clock. Checking for the current draw is really simple if I can get the clock disconnected without taking out the whole instrument panel. Can someone offer a practical solution please? Thanks in advance.

Capt. Mike

VW's wiring of US-bound Westies is sometimes hit & miss. Many of the accessories weren't std. in other markets. Per the Bentley, as you said, the clock appears to feed from the headlight switch, terminal 30 and then ground through the instrument ground circuit. However, although S13 feeds the switch, it looks like it also gets feed from S2 within the switch. Even that doesn't rule out internal feed by S3 or S4; that may be a swapping of terminals by a previous owner.

But all of that connection to the light circuitry is more indicative that the clock wiring in the Bentley is the backlight, not the clock itself. That may be getting operating feed from the printed circuit.

However, if you've pulled all the fuses, the question is moot. It's now apparant a previous owner has done some rewiring, perhaps attaching do a non-fused circuit.


New member
I'm pretty sure no re-wiring has occurred as I am only the second owner and the first owners were on oldercouple who barely used it. So, do you think #13 is one of the fuses to the right of the fuse box (#1 - 2) that is not labeled? Just want to make sure I did pull all of the fuses and there aren't others that I may be missing. Thanks again.

[This message was edited by Capt. Mike on June 03, 2003 at 05:49 AM.]

Capt. Mike

I'm presuming you have the ceramic fuse version of fuse box -- '85 was the transistion year and the later ATO style panel of the '86 started to appear. Vw has been good :rolleyes: at starting undocumented model year features early as they use up existing stock so mix is always possible.

There are relays, which may be fused above the fuse box, i.e. the back side. Additional fusing can always be located there. As you say, you have a couple of undocumented fuses next to the box, and the only ID method left is to check their wiring colors and trace them.

When things don't fall into place, it's usually time to go back to basics and start tracing the wires -- it may be simply an in-line somewhere along the path. My copy of the '85 wiring diagram shows it in the GY/BL circuit coming off terminal 58b of the light switch, though but I still suspect that's the backlight side because of the linkage to all the parking light circuit.
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Capt. Mike

:cool: Bentley has issued a correction to the 1968-1979 VW Bus manual:

Electrical system, Section 4.3 Page 5.

Diagram 3-1 has been changed to show a 16 amp fuse in position 10 and an 8 amp fuse in position 11. No other changes.

Fuse 11 is primarily light amperage lights & instruments in most model years so a 16a fuse would be too high. Fuse 10 carries heave amperage items like heaters, wipers and defoggers so the 8a may be insufficient. Consult your owner's manual and wiring diagrams.
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Capt. Mike

Transferred to consolidate same topic.

whitestarline Member posted September 17, 2003 09:51 PM


I recently purchased a 1966 westfalia bus. I am very confused over the little white switch on the left side of the steering column below the speedometer. What does it do? I'm new to the old style bus's and none of the books make reference to it. please help.

Capt. Mike

Workshop Manual, VW Transporter 1963-1967* contains wiring diagrams for your model. Section E-1, page 13, shows the US model. The only switch that seems logical is the "Emergency light switch", Key J4. Follow the wiring from the switch; if it doesn't match, it may be an aftermarket switch by a previous owner or a non-US market bus. (Diagram also in shop manual -- see Guideline #3).

(* This is the factory shop manual, expected for responses this site -- avail. from Site Bookstore, Bentley & others.)