City water connection


bodhi

New member
I hooked up a hose to the city water connection, turned on the valve at the spigot and nothing happened at the sink. Then went to the sink and tried to turn that switch at the sink spigot and still no water. Am I missing something simple? I sort of thought that sink switch/spigot had a 2 way valve, normally closed so by turning it towards the city marking I should get water and pressure from the city connection. I've used the sink from the tank and pump and it does fine. Any ideas...
 
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frito

New member
This happened to me when I first tried to get my city water connection working. There is a little ball inside the the spigot at the outside connection. Behind this ball there is a little spring. If it sits long enough it may corrode and when you hook up the city water, the pressure is not enough to break it free. I used a screwdriver to push the ball free. Perhaps a screwdriver is not the tool of choice but it did the job. A note here, at first I pushed the ball with a fair amount of pressure but I could not free the ball. It took a good whack to set it free.

It is easy to check if this is your problem. Just put a screwdriver in the hole and see if the ball moves back easily.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
You are correct in that an '86 should have a dual control at the faucett, though they used a couple of vendors.

On direction of the control knob turns on city water; the other activates the electric switch to turn on the pump.

Wiring is on page 97.33 (It says '80-85 but is applicable.) Faucet removal is 76.16-17. Pump OK but no city water is very likely to mechanical per frito above or something similar at the faucet.
 

JOHNWOLF

New member
I am also having difficulty with the city water connection on my 1987 Westy. I tried clearing the spigot with a screwdriver as others have previosly posted. There seems to be a lot of resistance but I can not tell if the ball is stuck or not. I didn't want to aply so much pressure that I would cause additional damage. When I do hook up a hose to the city water connection water gushes bacK out of the spigot which leads me to think that something is opstructing the passage way. Is there anything other than a stuck ball that may be causing this problem? Additionally, the sink works well from the holding tank but I am unable to move the knob in the direction of the city water. Why might this be happening? And could it be related to the other problem. Lastly, I also was unable to access the sink and water system archive. Thanks so much for your help.

John
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
The OUTSIDE fitting for city water does have a check-ball. The reference to releasing it in the owners manual with a screw-driver is when you are draining the system for wintner storage. It should not be poked for normal use.

If you are getting leakage around the fitting, it is probably missing the seal washer. The fitting comes with a washer like found in a hose end, but they can come loose and fall out. The cheap kind with the little tabs that come on 10 or so to a sheet work fine as the tabs help keep them in. Many of us just take the washer off and store it with the hose.

The sink faucet turns TWO ways. According to the manual, there is a "T" for tank and a "C" for city, though I can't make them out on mine. Anyway, it's the opposite direction to the 12v pump; off is in the center.
 

JOHNWOLF

New member
Thanks for your reply Captain Mike. Unfortunately, I still can not get my city water connection to work. The seal washer is a little loose but does not seem to be the problem. When I connect the hose a large amount of water pours out of the connection. Additionaly, I still am not able to turn the faucet towards the "C" for city. The knob on the faucet only turns approx. 100 degrees from extreme "T" tank operation to "C" city operation. Is this normal functionality?Unfortunatetly, I do not know any other Westy owners to compare. If you have any other suggestions i would gretly appreciate it. Is it possible that the city water connection has become clogged? I will try and remove the city water conection to invesigate further. I've already replaced the tank filler connection and would assume that the city water connection is set up similarly. Thanks again for yor suggestions and if you have any other thoughts I'd love to hear em. Warm regards, John
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Well, for a start I'd check the faucet. The full T to C turn is only about 30° on mine. The off (center) to T is just enough to engage a switch, about the same as most rotary switches. The off to C isn't much different.

If your faucet isn't working, you may be getting a backflow. Do check your water pressure also. I'm on a well so mine is 50 psi but some residences, especially fed from high towers, can break 100 psi, way more than an RV system was designed to handle. I notice Camper World selling pressure regulators to go between the city supply and RV. Maybe . . .??
 

Catherine

New member
Just another note.... I took my van to an RV repair place and complained that when I hooked up to city water I got a leak, and he told me that there was too much water pressure coming into the van, and sold me a water pressure regulator. This seems to have done the trick in terms of the water connection not leaking. It was about $10.
 
G

Guest

Guest
I had the same trouble as the city water didn't work in my 86 Westy. I just happened across the initial post and solution. 15 minutes later I had the ball freed and my city water is back on track.
I removed the plastic mount from my Westy and unscrewed it from hose going to the sink. I tried to push it out using an allen wrench- as I was worried about a screw driver. No luck, I tapped the allen with a hammer and nothing. I finally had to whack a screwdriver pretty hard with a hammer to free the ball. It isn't what I wanted to do but it worked and my ball was undamaged. Mine was really stuck in there.

You can tell if your ball is free by just pushing a screwdriver in the hole. If it isn't stuck, you can feel the resistance from the spring behind it.

If you remove the whole mount becareful not to lose the rubber washer on the inside behind the spring.

I also put some teflon tape on hose threads to prevent and leakage when reinstalling.

Thanks for another quick fix, Brian
 

john towndrow

New member
I have a 1993 Westfalia Eurovan and have tried all of the above methods but can't get the tank to fill from the city water connection. The little spring valve seems to push in ok but nothing happens at the tap either. Can anyone help?
John
 
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Capt. Mike

Moderator
I'm not up on the '93. You didn't say if yours is a Westy- or a Winnie-built. There may well be a difference.

The above posts are referenced Vanagons & Type IIs. Neither ever had a tank fill from the city pressure line feature. The Type IIs all filled via a fill cap inside. You literally had to take the fill hose in through the door.

The Vanagons had an outside fill separate from the city pressure line hook-up. It was a gravity fill, not too efficient, and similar to the units found on most smaller RVs. There was no built-in feature to fill the tank via the city pressure line.

Many of us with Type II's did find they could connect the city pressure line and then, via a simple rubber hose to the fill pipe, fill the tank via the faucet without dragging a big garden hose inside.

I looked at the Bentley and it's rather sparse on water tank info, but none of the pictures suggest any sort of fill cross-over to the faucet system that looks like it could take city pressure. The faucet pic R76-46 shows a braided compression fitting hose, but the fill line R76-29 looks like a light, clear poly hose on a plastic barb -- not city fill pressure stuff. I also note the lid is the same molded plastic lid of the Vanagons and is NOT the type to handle city pressure when the tank is full. In fact you'll see warnings elsewhere on this site to immediately siphon off a quart or two after a fill to avoid any pressure on this marginally sealed lid.

Finally, I'll ask you to remember even the gravity fill tanks have a vent -- it the air can't escape as it's displaced by the water, the tank won't fill. In the Vanagons, that vent was a tiny hole directly above the water fill. Go through your owner's manual again and then to your dealer (Guideline #8) to look at all the plumbing and fittings on your tank to see for sure what your set-up should be.
 

john towndrow

New member
Thanks for the feedback.
In desperation over the weekend I finally found the problem. First, I noticed that there is a small electrical switch that gets pushed in when the black plastic external cover on the hose connection gets closed. I assumed that had some kind of shut off purpose for the water connection. I searched inside the access cover that gives access to the back of the hose connection and found two plastic electrical connections that looked like they might fit together. I connected them together and then tried pushing on the small electrical switch. I could hear a small clunk - clunk as I pushed it in and out. It was obvious that a mechanical action was taking place and it made sense that a valve was being opened and closed because when the hose cover plate is closed you want the tank hose to be closed. Bingo! This was the problem. The electrical connection for what I suppose is a solenoid valve had come loose. When I just plugged the two ends together and the connection for solenoid valve was working again and the hose could do its job and fill up the tank. Once the tank is full, the valve automatically closes. Brilliant!
Since the previous owner didn't use the hose attachment, he never discovered this disconnection that has probably been there since it came from the factory.
Hope this helps others.
John
 
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birdmike

New member
IT WORK NOW
I found the check valve ball welded to the body. I removed the spring and drilled the ball. Remove the entire device before. It work very well even if the check valve isn't in fonction. There is someone that he know exactely what this check valve do.
The faucet hole have something like 1/4 inches diameter. A normal garden hose have something like 1/2 inches diameter. It's not a good idea to open the garden hose valve at the max. flow because the restriction increase the pressure inside the system cause problem.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Damaged water hook-ups

A common problem at campgrounds is to find the threads damaged on the faucets to hook up the water fill or city-water hose. Some do not have a threaded end, but are just smooth faucet nozzles.

Two solutions to carry with you. One is a rubber connection adaoptor. It will mold itself to damaged threads on the faucet and give you a firm connection for your hose.

The other is a "water thief". It's designed to slip over smooth sink faucets and let you hook up a hose. Since it's tapered, it often won't stand heavy pressures. I keep a set of hose clamps on mine for added security.
 

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