Automatic transmission problems


Capt. Mike

Moderator
The A/T has a filter (oil strainer) inside the transmission that should be cleaned. Since these are rather fragile and fine, it might be wise to change it. Pictures, including gaskets Bentley 38.25.

The torque converter has it's own section starting at 32.1.

The differential is a separate entity, having its own section in the Bentley starting on 39.50. Capacity and hypoid oil spec is listed there. There is also a posting in the TIPS forum on Vanagon fluids & capacities.
 

challsql

New member
howdy guys. i have a 73 with automatic tranny whic was rebuilt 2 years ago and aoly driven 1.5yrs within that time. the tranny suddenly went out (no drive or reverse). the bus has been sat through last winter. i start her up yesterday and when i shift to reverse or drive i got a consistent clicking/knocking sound. i hope i won't have to rebuild the tranny again and hopefully is just a cable/linkage issue. any ideas? i am planning on getting her on the road this spring. thanks.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Insufficient info; see Guidelines, especially #1-4. What diagnosis have you done? What did you find when you drained the fluid and dropped the pan? What's the linkage doing (Bentley section 7-13)? Which of the Troubleshooting cause/remedies have you checked and eliminated in the Bentley's A/T troubleshooting chart, section 7-3, table a?
 

swedefiddle

New member
Something has come loose. Driveaxle bolts? c/v joint broke? Axle nuts were loose & stripped the splines out of the drive hubs? Look a little more for the problem instead of talking to the computor.
 

gyoung

New member
I have a 84 1.9 Westy which has been sitting over the winter. When I recently tried to start it up I noticed A/T fluid coming out of the dipstick fill area. It only has 50K miles is it time for a rebuild or can I try a gasket, filter, fluid job?
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Common after a long lay-up is for the A/T breather to get clogged, either from gunking up, moisture & rust, or from little critters building nests. Spiders & waps are notorious for doing so. Check that out first.

Is it coming out the top of the dipstick or where the dipstick enters the pan? If the latter, you may have to replace the dipstick pipe since the parts manual doesn't show any replaceable seals. Check for tightness and alignment first.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Transferred to consolidate same topic.

brewog Junior Member Posted April 04, 2005 08:23 PM

Hi, I just have Eurovan T4 2.5L petrol 1999
I want to ask about, how many litre ATF I have to fill in transmission gearbox. Thank you.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Capacity and fluid type are given in the Bentley, Section H 00-15 for Type 098 A/T; J 00-14 for Type 01P A/T. Final drive capacities type & capacity also given there. [Guideline #2] Usually this information is also in the Owner's Manual.
 

jim conlin

New member
Hello.I bought an 87 with 68,000 original miles last year.Have not gained the confidence to take her far as she has funny power blackouts at cruising speeds and tends to idle all day in the driveway but has yet to meet many stop signs or red lights she likes.Her latest test of my love has been to refuse to have power in reverse . At first it was fickle, let her cool down, call her names and soon she would comply. Not being mechanical I thought it payback for not learning automotive basics.Now, she refuses to go in reverse. I am hoping that it is just the shifter box and not the transmission because the button one presses to shift is not that necessary for the changing of gears . The backup lights come on if that means anything and when it first began to occur the reverse power was minimal ,a slight incline was a challenge. I have checked the tranny fluid after a 6 k. warm up ,have had a major tune up by reliable vw guy [terry lacasse in nassau ny] I am hoping someone has had these symptoms and could lend me a hand. thanks , jim
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
The VW Bentley shop manual for the Type II '68-'79 has a major A/T Troubeshooting table that is equally applicable to the Vanagons.

The control assembly is in the Vanagon Bentley 37.2; you'll note in that diagram that the back-up light contact bridge is on the lever mechanism, not in the transmission so that the back-up light is going on does not necessarily reflect what is reaching the transmission.
 

Hop Chop

New member
I have an automatic 86 with 172.000 miles. Reverse gear does not have power, the rest are good and with plain of power. What could be the cause? Transmission, clutch,...?
Thanks.
 

tklos

New member
I have a 90 Automatic Westfalia. I think my RPM's are too high.
50 mph-3000 RPM
55 mph-3200 RPM
60 mph-3600 RPM
70 mph-4000 RPM

The transmission has been rebuilt 3 months ago.
Any input would be appreciated.
 

icarus

Moderator
I can't state for a fact, but that sounds about right. My sister has a 91' westy multivan AT. 70mph puts the tach right at 4000rpm. My syncro with 5 speed 70mph=4000rpm

Icarus
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
3rd (top) gear in an A/T has a ratio of 1.00:1. The M/T's had 4th gear ratios of .85:1, in effect an overdrive.

The A/T has a final drive differential ration of 4.09:1. The M/T's varied by type -- 4.83:1 or 4.86:1. (There were other ratios on TD versions of the 4WD not generally available in N. America.)

The standard M/T had an effective final drive of 4.11:1 or 4.13:1. The A/T would be 4.09:1 -- negligible difference.

Thus RPM's per mph will be close in top gear. You can work out the exact number with the rolling circumfrance of your tires, but standard 185/78R14 sizes on a M/T should be 55mph @ 3000rpm; 64 @ 3500; & 73 @ 4000.

Do remember VW speedometers are not famous for accuracy and error usually increases with mph. Unfortunately, typical errors read 'high' so you're usually not going as fast as you think with correct tires. See the "Speedometer . . ." topic in the BASIC WIRING forum.
 

JimE

New member
I have an 87 Westy with an A/T. The second gear brake band cover is seeping transmission fluid. In looking at the vehicle, and the Bentley manual, it would appear that repairing this leak is a fairly straightforward job that can be done with the transmission in the vehicle. Has anyone had any experience with this? Are there any hidden complications? I have heard a rumor that the brake band moves when the cover and piston are removed, such that the piston cannot be reinstalled.
 

davedailey

New member
1990 GL vanagon A/T. 191000 miles. Smelled like burning rubber while starting another long trip driving on freeway (new problem), and started up from stop lights as if it was in high gear. Checked tranny fluid. very low. Added 1 quart- made it home. Had tranny serviced...filter, gasket, 3 qts of Dexron/Mercron (sp?) III now it leaks, and still starts up from lights as if in high gear.

Yes, I read Bentley... any ideas would be of help... the shop I go to will take it back to re-check in a couple weeks... but man- I want to hit the road 'way sooner than that.
icon_smile.gif
Thanks. Hope I have this posted in auto tranny section right.
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
The older '68-'79 Type II Bentley had an excellent A/T Troubleshooting chart; wish they had kept it in the Vanagon version.

Matching your symptoms: 2. ATF dark colored & smells burned; This may accompany or signal the start of trouble caused by burned friction linings on the brake bands or clutches. (This adds cleaning & flushing the torque converter into changing of ATF.)

15. Kickdown will not function; a. Kickdown switch defective or misadjusted, b. Kickdown solenoid switch defective.

16: Poor acceleration. Top speed low despite good engine output; a. ATF too low or high, b. Torque converter one-way clutch defective, c. Forward clutch defective, d. Direct and reverse clutch defective, 3. 2nd gear brake band or servo defective. (These repairs require removing tranny.)

The A/T of the Type II & Vanagons were basically the same; get an older Type II manual -- I think it deals with service a little better. Ought to be plenty of used out there or they can often be found in public libraries. It also lists tests or "remedies" for each malfunction.
 

Pease

New member
Can anyone tell me if it is possible to remove just the gear box from the Automatic Transmission without removing the final drive? It seems that all of the manuals describe removal of both and then separation of the units. Given the weight of the final drive it would be great if just the gear box could be swapped, if bad, without removing the CV axles and final drive. Thanks,

Jim
 

icarus

Moderator
I don't think it is possible to remove them seperatly. Dropping the whole unit is not that hard. A good floor jack or transmission jack helps big time.

Icarus
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
No, see Bentley 37.5 & 38.3. However you do not have to remove the CV joints & axles, only unbolt the inner ones where they connect to the flange. You can slide a light plastic bag over them with a wire tie to retain their grease & keep them clean during the operations. Figure 38.2 shows how much the turbine shaft extends into the transmission housing so you can understand how much fore & aft room you would require.
 

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