Aftermarket Cruise Control


jpquick

New member
[Original start lost by computer glitch.] al for many makes (VW Vanagon not on list, but it will work), I programmed my control unit to work from tach signal of negative (-) coil wire only. The Magnet kit I forfitted - waste of time after I installed it. The Audiovox tech I talked to said if you use the magnet kit, then it will be the sole speed sensor for control unit. I might try this if I have more time since my magnet kit is already mounted on my standard trans.
drivers side.

I found this cruise kit at Schucks. Craigen might be the source for others in other locations in the US. It listed for $97.99.

I am 70% done so far. The kit appears to have everything I need. I had to scratch my head fab wise to engineer what came in the kit to adapt to my throttle body. The mount is easily fabbed and looks professional. A u-bolt around the metal middle cooling pipe would work best for this mount (not in kit). I improvised with my own collection of bolts and metal that came in the kit. I'll post later with tips to make it easier for the rest of you assuming I am happy with the results.

Hey, face it, this would be sweet for the long drives. I just like to torture myself with projects. This job is not for the easily intimidated, and is not possbile without the Bently.

JP

Now at 90% complete.

Cruise holds 70 mph until steep, long passes interfer. I am noticing noise interference from my coil which disengages the cruise.
I bought a noise suppressor from Walmart rated for 10 amp car stereo applications.
I am going to connect it inline 5 inches from the servo unit.

I also need a vaccum booster sold by Audiovox direct for app. $14. The booster is supposed to store vaccum and help hold vaccum for the cruise servo.

Cruise is sweet and worth the trouble installing for me. I live by the Bentley for this job though. Mistakes in wiring could cost you electrical damage. Be carefull if you decide to venture this task. I am in it app. 40 hours including time chasing down extra parts needed for the job.

JLT Junior Member # 1544 07-10-2001 03:30 PM

JPQuick,

I have been looking for a cruise unit that will work on my 86 Westy and have not found one. What is the model number of the unit you used?

Reply from JPQUICK: CCS100 AVX CRUISE CONTROL (made by Audiovox -- dash mount controller).

Go to www.partsamerica.com

search = Accessories -> Electronics -> Cruise Control

Jon :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:

icarus

Moderator
After many years of stiff right legged driving, I bit the bullet and installed a cruise in my '86 synco. None of my local after market installers would touch it. Since the car is almost 20 years old, none of thier books had any info for this application.

I found on the web, Auto Air and More, in Las Vegas. They sold me a Rostra unit. Rostra used to be owned by Delco I think. The unit I bought is all electronic so that no Vacume is needed nor an add on vacume cannister. The servo unit (250-1223) along with the iluminated dash switch (250-3592)(I didn't bother with the turn signal switch as I though it was too much trouble) and the magnetic speed sensor was delivered to me for under $300
The folks at Auto Air and More were very helpful both pre and post sale.

The install was fairly strait forward. You have to fabricate a bracket for the cable, make up a wiring harness extension. If you can find a vanagon speedometer speed sensor you can dispense with the magnetic kit. (I am looking for one, as I think it would be more trouble free).

The speed sensor mounted easily on the cross bracket to the syncro drive shaft guard. (Non syncros will have to mount the sensor kit on the rear axle shaft. It shouldn't be too hard.) The tach sensor wire can simply connect to the negative side of the coil instead of being routed all the way to the front. I did not install the recomended clutch switch as it was just too much trouble to fabricate a bracket for the switch. Just remember to shut it off before down shifting. At the dash, you have to wire from the dash lights, hot and cold brake light wires. I was able to fish the extended harrness through the drivers side frame rail, from front to rear. ( A little tricky to pull the wires, but a good fish tape and patience makes it work.)

I mounted the servo unit on the side of the engine compartment just ahead of the coil. It makes it a bit harder to get to the plugs, but with two bolts you can take it out. The installation would be much easier in the engine compartment with a non syncro, since the cross over coolant pipes are not in your way.

I just finished today and it seems to work fine. I have to fine tune the programable dip switches for smoother performance. When I get what I think is the best configuration I will post a post script. ( Since the car is so old, the book has no proper spec. for these switches, so trial and error will prevail).

A post script. After a fair amount of trial and error I have found the proper position for the dip switches. Gain/sensativity switches 1 and 2 set for mid. Engine setup/timer switches
set for 4 cylinder low. I hope this helps the next person to avoid lots of trial, error and time.

Now that it is all set up it works perfectly, smoothly picking up and decelerating. I have always felt that I was more gentle on the throttle than any cruise, but now I have competition.

Total install time was about 6 hours, (not counting time thinking about where things should go and reading the book). I think that there is a great advantage to a modern, all electronic unit rather than the old fasioned vacume systems.


Icarus

P.S. The wire I used to extend tha harness was 4 wire trailer wire. 4 #16 wires in one bundle rated to be installed unprotected. I had to add one more wire, and put them all in a loom where they are exposed.

p.p.s. After 8000 miles, coast to coast and then some, a few thoughts on the above. The system works pretty well. The two problems I have are minor. The first is that if the hill is steep enough that the engine cannot maintain, the system shuts off suddenly on the up grade. It helps to grab the throttle and shut it down first. (It is a surprise when you haven't been paying attention to the grade and the pedal goes clunk and the car starts slowing down withour warning!) Unfortunatly there are a lot of hills between B.C and Maine and return that you can't climb at full road speed.

The other problem is that you cannot engage the system unless you are accelerating. If you are neutral or off throttle it won't engage.

All things considered a great addition, especialy with 105f, my right foot get real hot.

Icarus
 

jerepowers

New member
1984 VW Vanagon Westfalia. I am installing an aftermarket cruise control. Is there any real difference between the voltage created by the brake switch (which is a pain to get to) and the voltage that runs to the brake lights? The brake switch should be made up of a hot side (12 volts always) and a cold side (12 volts only when the brake is pushed).

I can see on a regular front-engine car, trying to get to the back brake lights would be a chore. However, for the Vanagon, it's much easier to go the brake lights. I could run 12 volts from the main power for the hot side and then run the cold side wire to the brake lights. When the brake is applied, 12 volts will appear on the brake light wire just like the switch.

I am replacing a dealer-installed unit (which by the way is marked Travel Accessories Inc. on the back metal mounting plate of the actuator) and that is how the dealer installed the original cruise -- running what I assume to be the brake switch wire to the brake lights.
 

icarus

Moderator
There is of course no difference between the voltages per sey. The difference lies in what kind of signal the control unit "wants". I have to say I can't remember, but I think (I just got out the book to look!) Mine (rastra) needed a signal from both the hot and cold side of the brake light switch. I suspect that it is wired that way as a redundant safety ciruit, so that if there is no voltage to the brake lights you cannot engage the cruise control. If your unit only needs positive voltage to disengage the unit, it shouldn't make any difference where you pick up the 12vts.

(On second thought, thinking this through a bit further, without looking at the Bentley, do the turn signal/4way flashers share wiring/bulb filiments with the brake lights? If this is the case the cruise would cancel when you signal to change lanes etc. I suggest you look at the Bentley wiring diagram to confirm.)

Finally, after you get the unit installed you will find thatoften the car can't maintain speed as set. I find myself mindlessly driving along, and when the engine can't keep up, it disengages suddenly with a start! It wakes me up however.

Good luck

Icarus
 

Capt. Mike

Moderator
Doing some search for Hella (VW OE cruise manufacturer) led me to seveal announcements that Hella is using laser radar at the forefront of what is called Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC). Most of the announcements were geared toward high-end applications with warnings or activation of collision avoidance features for too-close and back-up hazards. However, we'll hope this becomes a viable technology for every-day and add-on cruise controls. They claim it would be ~50% cheaper than current technology in that application.
 

84-westy

New member
JP,
I have an 84 Westy and have ordered the CCS-100 kit by Audiovox. Any advise or hints you can give would be greatly appreciated. I have a well used and greasy Bently, but why re-invent the wheel?
Thanks,
wally
 

dcjowell

New member
Rostra Cruise Control

I purchased a Rostra Cruise Control for my 88 Westy 2wd thinking I had all the install info needed. I now have a blank mind. I can't figure out where to install the actual control unit.
Engine compartment, underneath the storage compartment ? At a ralley last year I took pictures of an installed unit on a 84. It seems my 88 is lacking the same kind of room. Any help would be great.
 

tsmith5041

New member
Audiovox CCS 100 Cruise Install

I am planning to install an Audiovox CCS 100 Cruise System in my 87 and the biggest concern at this point is where to install the vacuum servo unit. The connection to the throttle is a 2nd concern. I have a fairly good idea on how to connect the wiring and I do not plan to use the magnets for sensor input. My speedometer does not have a sensor on it but am considering adding one that came on the vans with factory cruise. I'm told these have a weak output and that there is powered one available that the Subaru conversion folks use that may serve better. I've read that most just rely on the tach & coil connections for the signal so I'll probably try the install without a speed sensor first. Any insight that others who have done this can provide would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone have photos they can post or e-mail to me at tsmith5041@carolina.rr.com.

Thanks
Tom
 

RBEmerson

Member
Bump.

I'm looking for info on CCS 100 installations in a Vanagon, too. I installed a CCS 100 on a Kawasaki Concours (motorcycle) and found it was a relatively easy project. The hardest part was the "nuts and bolts" part of attaching the servo to the throttle linkage ([expletive deleted] tight spaces and no line of sight - all done by feel!) but the rest was just a matter of thinking things out a bit - measure twice, cut once.

I'm not sure the CCS 100 is still around, although I've seen them on eBay and Murphs Kits (most excellent Concours parts and accessories store!) was talking about them coming back. Anyway, as someone else said, I'd rather not re-invent the wheel if someone has info on this or similar installations.
 

RBEmerson

Member
Murphs Kits is selling the AudioVox CCS-100 in OEM form (white box, bags of parts, you print out the on-line manual PDF) for $170 plus $17 for a vacuum canister. I've dealt with Murph for several years; finest kind person and finest kind company.

DISCLAIMER: I have no connection with Murphs Kits save as a customer.

My remaining problem is trying to find a vacuum tap for the servo. At this point, I've identified a possible candidate. The line originates at the throttle body and goes to the charcoal canister valve (line outlined in red) and returns from the valve to the idle control valve (line outlined in green). My plan is to insert a T in the red portion of this line and lead it off to the vacuum canister (tied to the servo's vacuum line). Would doing this cause engine problems of any sort? The engine is a GW 2.2L WBX.

IMAG0031-1.jpg
 

tsmith5041

New member
Hello and good luck with the installation, I installed one earlier this year. The servo is under the rear seat, mounted to the bulkhead behind and above the rear heater. With the heater cover back in place, it can't be seen. If your van is real quite and there is little road noise, there is a relay chatter to be heard from the unit. In the real world it can't be heard. I used foam rubber under the mount tabs so it would not transmit noise to the metal panel. I did not use a vacuum storage unit but installed one of the kit 'T's to the fuel pressure regulator and tapped directly to the unit. It worked fine but after some time it would not hold speed. Apparently the quality of the hose in the kit was not good and the short piece between the fuel reg and the "T" has split. This was found while converting from a 5 sp to an auto trany. After the conversion I changed the position of the manual/auto trans switch on the servo. The unit is working again but the performance of the unit is not smooth, there is a pronounce pulsating to the speed. I am probably going to install a vacuum storage unit or a vacuum pump like VW used on their OE unit, and hope that corrects the problem. During the short time the unit was working properly, my right leg felt liberated so it is worth the effort. Good luck and post back to let us know of your results.
Tom
 

RBEmerson

Member
Thanks for the feedback! My plan is to put the servo and canister along the bulkhead near the oil filler and dipstick. The last CCS-100, on a Kawasaki Concours sport-touring bike, was hung off the frame near the rear wheel. It didn't seem to suffer from all the spray off the wheel and whatnot, to I think the planned bulkhead location will work with the Westy. And that avoids the relay chatter issue altogether.

Can you tell me more about finding the fuel pressure regulator line? A photo would be great. This is the one point I'm really stalled on: finding where to get the vacuum source. Point taken on the quality of the hose - I'll get some "good stuff" hose for the job.
 

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