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Thread: Fridge-water-battery (LED) panel

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    9

    Default Reverse Engineering the LED panel Part II

    Hmmm. Turns out that an 18V substitute opamp (like the TLC274) may not be high enough, without adding some capacitor filtering to the LED panel. Don't ask how I know.

    Best stick with the original (36V) LM324.

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  3. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    La Conner, WA
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Doc Brown,
    You mention a white wire you found in the analysis process. In getting my sink pump (1980 Westy) working again after adding an independent second battery, I learned that, contrary to my assumption that the white which is packaged with the thick red is not a ground. Hooking that to ground when I hooked the red to pos made the pump not work. Reading other posts, I started the engine, which allowed the sink pump to run. I read on, then disconnected the white from ground and the pump worked without the engine running. This baffles me, probably because I don't have a wiring diagram to tell me what the white is going to.
    Can anyone fill me in on this? If so, thanks!
    ...Tom in the Chocolatewagon

  4. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I have a 1984 Vanagon, has anybody had the fridge Led always on? Even if the fridge is off the light is on.

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