I have a 1971westy with 135,000 miles(or more) the overall condition is excellent. The problem is it only gets 10 miles to the gallon( this is my first bus and i'm not sure what the milage should be but this seems exstremly low) also it has very little power going up hills. The compression tested at 90 per cylinder. The bently suggests rebuilding or replacing at anything under 100psi. I have found that California Imports has brand new engines(1600cc) from Mexico for 1400.00US and my mechanic will switch it out for 200.00 bucks plus the old engine.( he also said he could rebuild the old one but it has been rebuilt "at least once" according to the previous owner) Has any one bought one of these engines? If so what did you think of it? any replies would be most appreciated
whitestarline Junior Member posted July 16, 2002 09:16 PM
Hello, I need some help. I recently installed a rebuilt engine in my 1978 westy and I have no clue which hoses go where. the engine was out when I purchased it and the books I've read don't help out a lot. I was wondering if anyone knows where I could view some pictures or diagrams of what goes where. thanks
That's a definate failing of the VW shop manuals -- they assume everyone already knows. Thus you are forced into piecing it together from the repair sections of the various components. Often it involves reading the descriptions of the compnent functions to figure out where things feed from or go to.
One of the best sources is still to find a pristine original and ask to look & draw. Most Westy owners will go out of their way to help another.
The trickiest is often the vacuum lines and there should be a decal on the engine lid. If you don't have one, again try to find that pristine original '78 (and they vary between 49-state, CA and Canada) that you can copy. You might also check the restoration suppliers like West Coast Metrics to see if they have reproductions of that decal.
A hint on installing -- research the length needed. That often gives a clue as to where it goes or how it's routed. Although much replacement hose is listed as meter-ware part numbers, the fiche often gives exact length in that application.
Transferred to consolidate same topic.
chfbrd Member posted February 02, 2003 08:39 PM
I am currently remeoving my 1800 engine and I was wondering how to remove the 3 bolts that hold the torque converter to the drive plate. In the bentley manual it says to turn over the engine to access the bolts but my engine is seized. How do I get to these bolts? Is there another place that I can look for more pics of engines removal besides the Bentley manual. I find it doesn't have enough pics of items it is describing. It is my first engine removal and some things aren't described clear enough.
You didn't give year and model. I didn't find any such instructions in the Type II manual (If an 1800, it would be a Type II), but I do find it in the '80> Vanagon book page 10.3. However I believe that is included in the instructions for removing the engine alone. The Type II, although it references the bolts (5-14.), again only mentions it in connection with removing the engine alone. Section 7-8.1.2 states:Thus the question arises, are you removing both units together? This is the logical and preferred method. Therefore it may be possible to do the separation AFTER the assembly is out and breaking between engine & tranny. It [reads] like the converter stays in the car when just the engine is removed and can be removed after the engine/tranny assembly is out without it. I have to admit I've never had the misfortune to have to work on an A/T, but hopefully another A/T owner can add to this.Grasp the converter with both hands, Remove it by pulling it with a twisting motion off its support tube in the final drive carrier.
Since your engine is frozen, once out it may be possible to get your rotation, if still required, after removing the heads and determining what/why it's frozen.
Last edited by Capt. Mike; 04-09-2010 at 07:01 PM.
Sorry about the wrong topin area for question.
It is a 75 westy. I believe it is a 1800. In the Owner Manual. Engine and Clutch pg.9 step 12
It is an automatic and I only want to removel whole engine without removing heads. I have another engine to go right in.
Just wanted to let you know, Canadian remans are still available. I have an 84 wasserboxer that went south a while ago. I just left the local VW dealer and a reman 1.9 liter is priced at $3966.95 (1500 core charge). I'll also replace the exhaust from top down for about $1000 (but they missed the Cat quote). The labor was 12 hours at $840. The Service manager and head mechanic I spoke with inspired confidence. They said they've done this job many times, since they've worked there a while, and have only had to pull one engine because it wouldn't stop leaking. VW replaced it with no problem. I guess I'm looking at around $4500, but the year warranty had me convinced a while ago. I'll let you know how goes when I work up the courage to start.
I've got an '85 Westfalia GL. Motor needs heads and waterpump.
I've located a 1984 vanagon motor, very good condition, runs strong according to the seller.
Is there any difference between the 84 and 85, as well as differnces between the standard Vanagon and the GL as far as the motor is concerned.
I'm also planning on replacing the head gaskets as well as the waterpump on the replacement motor, "Just in case"
My thinking is that will be good future insurance, as well as easy as the motor will be on a pallet.
Your thoughts ?
Putting the engine in a T2b -Tips
okay there are 3 engine replacement forums, and i hope this is the right one.
I have put in my engine a number of times over the years, and i've learned a little bit more every time to make it easier. I would like to share some of my aquired knowledge.
The easiest and fastest way that i have come accross to install the engine:
Place the engine on a Motorcyle ATV Hydraulic Jack (Kragen currently offered one for just $50)
Then balance the transmission on a regular hydraulic jack. with the rear end of the bus standing on jackstands, roll the engine into the engine compartment and raise it to the height of the transmission (standing on the hydraulic jack about 10cm under it's mount, that way the engine and the tranny will be on the same axis) The engine will just snugly fit into the compartment and just bareley not touch the transmission shaft. Then while sitting in the engine compartment adjust the transmission by hand till the studs and the shaft are lined up. Have a buddy slowly roll the engine forward untill it mates with the transmission; crank the engine by hand a bit if they do not go all the way togther.
Bolt the engine to the transmission, raise the engine; then loosly bolt on the rear motor mounts. Remove the ATV jack and have your buddy very slowly jack the transmission up and down with the regular jack, while you wiggle in the upper transmission mounting bolts.
By doing it this way you can shift the "lighter" transmission by hand to meet the engine, rather than the much heavier "and less secured" engine.
Type 2 T2b driver
I am not sure if this is in an appropriate forum, but I think it can fit into this one. I am going to be removing the engine of my 1978 Westy next weekend. I am wondering what is the clearance I need from back bumper to floor to pull the engine out.
Thanks in advance..