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Thread: Preliminary eng. symptoms -- noise, smell, vibration. To ID applicable topic only.

  1. #51
    Join Date
    May 2000
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    Raleigh, NC USA
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    3,806

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    jglazener Transferred to correct forum & topic; since email is blocked, can't notify member.
    help, loud knocking, cold weather

    '87 westfalia joker
    im not sure if i have posted this in the right place so please re-direct me if ive made a mistake.

    can anyone tell me what they think this might be.

    im in cold weather 0-5 celsius. when the car/ engine is completely cold and i turn the key (it doesnt even have to start just be turned to on position) there is a loud knocking/clicking noise in the rear of the vehicle. i can hear it out of the back vent on the passenger side and even louder in the storage cabinet in the back over the rear wheel area. the car starts fine, but this loud knocking/clicking continues. the engine drives perfectly, no irregular sounds.
    the temp gauge is all the way left and when it heats up and warms up (in idle or driving) the knocking stops. it takes about 3-5 minutes. once car is warm i can start again, or turn key to on position, with no knocking. it definitely seems related to the cold.

    any ideas? thank you in advance.

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  3. #52
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Raleigh, NC USA
    Posts
    3,806

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    Since the noise begins with the key on but no start; the only thing that is activated at that stage are fuel pump and the relays to power up the FI system. Start at the fuel pump. It has it's own topic in the FUEL SYSTEM forum.

  4. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Rockwood Ontario Canada
    Posts
    13

    Default Engine Knocking 82 Vanagon

    I have searched the threads and cannot find any discussions on this.
    I had my 82 Vanagon engine totally rebuilt 12K Kilometres ago in 2006. Everything was scrapped except the block, crank and cam. In hindsight, but did not have time, should have tried to find a replacement engine but also got a great deal on all new parts. Anyhow the engine was rebuilt by a very reputable machine shop as the engine was so far gone my mechanic subbed out the work. It has been running super but in the past year has developed a knock which starts up at warm up and gets loud at lower rpms but goes away after the engine gets to hot operating temperature, to the point it sounds just fine. I have babied the engine with clean oil etc... I took it to the mechanic and machine shop but they are as confused as me why the knock would go away when HOT. It can take 20-30 minutes of driving or hotter weather for it to go away. It does not sound healthy when it is knocking. The plugs are also burning hot as they are white. The fuel economy is good, power is good but the knocking makes me very uneasy, as mentioned it is very pronounced at lower rpm. The oil pressure tested at 45 PSI but I am not sure what RPM and will check but I think it was at warm and idle.
    So if it were a piston bearing it would get worse when hot no? Short of taking the engine out, $$, and investigating, any ideas? When hot it sounds great but knocking is not good and I do not mean ignition knock, but mechanical knock.
    I am supposed to go away on a long trip in 5 days but am nervous....
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
    Thank you.

  5. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Apple Valley
    Posts
    1

    Default Bus won't start after I replaced starter and battery.

    So it all started when I went off roadin (bumps caused a lot of vibrations) in my bus and while driving it just cut out. I found there was no power to the ignition, so I hot wired power directly to the coil and the bus started right up. The following day I drove it to go get parts, but on my way I heard the lifters as if it was time to add more oil again(i.e. an oil leak). So as I looked for a flat place to pull over, the bus began to run ruff until I experienced a sever loss of horse power. I immediately pulled over and put the car in neutral so I could walk around to the back and pull the hot wire to shut her down. The bus remained on until I did this.
    I checked the oil & found my dumb ass had allowed the level to fall about a quart & half. I walked to buy some oil & put it in however, when I went to start her up I heard it crank slowly like a dead battery would, to a loud click-I assume the starter solenoid-. My buddy & I checked the starter with a multimeter both touched to the ignition and the battery cable, which all checked out. I stood at the coil and checked to see how many volts was being put out when my bud turned the key to crank it. The voltage dropped all the way from a little over 12v to around 7volts. We then tried to bypass the ignition using a screwdriver at the starter first engaging the solenoid and then we engaged the the starter to turn the car over, but nothing happened except for the loud click. So I exchanged the starter for a second new rebuild, put it in and even with a fully charged battery-checked at AutoZone-the motor still won't turn over.
    I feared that maybe the motor was too low on oil & it ceased, but I only drove up the street and the engine compartment didn't feel over heated. Also during my attempts to start the bus I took note of a mark on the pulley that was going around each crank although very slowly. Furthermore our attempts to push start revealed that the tires did spin the motor but they seemed to be very stiff even skidding for a foot during one of the pushes.
    Where do I look & what type of trouble shooting should come next? The weather up here in the desert has been perfect for a trip to the Deep Creek hot springs but I am a stranded, with the bus as my only vehicle. Oh works important to get to as well just not as much as taken my bus on adventures. Please help Jose

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