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Thread: Alternator & Generator

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Mass
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Thanks to both of you for your replies. I had the dealer perform checks on the system Capt. Mike suggested including the starter, etc. Also, the battery is not only acting as a pass through. This has helped me rule these out as a possibility. I do not own an ammeter, but at this point I should invest in one. The fridge is not the problem, because several times I've left it on, I even left the parking lights on once and it started. In the winter it would sit for a month and start, even though that battery was already in need of replacement. I will try removing the A/C from the circuitry. I did not realize that had so much draw on the system. .....UPDATED: Found the answer. The extra current is the result of the A/C. If the temp gauge is turned on, even though the fan isn't, it draws way too much on the battery. Because the fan is not running, I did not notice it being on in the past, that and the starter needed replacing. That explains why there was no draw when it was off. I noticed the dial had been turned on (someone looking at it probably) and turned it off. I was ok for over a month until I ran the A/C. Anyway, thanks to all the help here, I've been able to get it running beautifully!

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  3. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    2

    Default Replaced Alternator Now no Idle

    I recently replaced the alternator on my 86 Westy. The replacement went smoothly, but now it won't idle. I can drive it, but it will not idle. All the lights work fine and everything has plenty of electrical power. No spark plug wires were knocked loose etc.... Is it possible I shorted something out during the replacement?

  4. #23
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Raleigh, NC USA
    Posts
    3,806

    Default

    Was this a factory new or factory reman from VW? Now that the voltage regulator is built into the brush module, aftermarkets may not have the correct internal module.

    Look at your wiring diagram 97.87, circuit #5. One wire from terminal B+ leads directly to to the Digijet Control Unit Relay. That in turns routes it to your Idle Stabilizer Control Unit and Digifant Control Unit. What testing have you done of these circuits (Guideline #3)?

  5. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    2

    Default

    The alternator I installed was a remanufactured alternator (not Bosch). I'm beginning to think I should have just ordered the Bosch from the Bus Depot (or similar store). I have two wires the Red and the Blue. I have the red connected to the B+ currently and the blue to the D+ which does not work. There are two other thin white wires which could hook to various other posts......I guess my questions are:

    will this alternator work or should I just order the VW specific Bosch?
    if it will work, exactly how do I connect the wires?

    I do have a bentley manual so I can follow any of the flow charts if necessary, it just seems that the wires being hooked up wrong could be the biggest source of a problem.

    Signed totally lost, but not defeated, in PA

  6. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Sausalito, CA, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default

    I have a 1989 Westy a 10 y.o. alternator that's got about 30K miles on it. Sometimes after starting the engine the alternator light stays on for anywhere from 10 seconds to a couple minutes. I haven't checked the system voltage when the light is on, but during normal running with the light off I believe it is around 12.8volts. I have received several different suggestions about the light staying on - could be the alternator or wiring or voltage regulator.

    But there is another stranger thing going on. I believe the pulleys that the belts run on are rusted (because I live in a damp climate and drive infrequently). So often after starting there is a loud squealing sound that goes away after a couple revs of the engine. But recently, I have noticed just after starting the engine the alternator light stays on while the squealing is happening and then the light immediately goes off after the squealing stops. Is there some sort of clutch in the alternator that allows the belt on the alternator pulley to slip and then gets engaged resulting in the squealing to stop and the alternator to start working?

    I suppose I could just replace the alternator - GoWesty seems to have a good value and perhaps get a ceramic coating for the pulleys (recommended by my mechanic who owns a wake board boat.)

    Thanks for following this one!

  7. #26

    Default

    i would replace belt,but my alternator light plus my oxygen sensor light stays on when i start it until i give it a little rpm's then they go out and then every thing is normal.
    85 westy auto with tiico conversion

  8. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1

    Default Alternator Generator

    Been thinking about this...

    Has anyone tried running BOTH an alternator and a generator? I was thinking of trying to mount the alternator to the side and underneath the generator.

    The alternator would charge the car.

    The generator would be gutted, but would retain the pulley to drive the tach gearbox and mechanical tach.

    Hmmm...

    Comments? Ideas?

    d

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