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Thread: Wipers and Washers

  1. #1
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    Windshield wiper BLADES should be at a 90° angle to the windshield to avoid chatter and squeegee properly. Often new blades to not resolve the problem, or do so for only a short period of time.

    See the TOOLS forum for a description of this task and making a simple special tool that makes this job easier.

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  3. #2
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    Transferred from other posts to consolidate similar topics.

    Windshield Washers

    Daycr Junior Member # 1010 posted 06-09-2001 01:34 PM

    My front windshield washer reservoir leaks, does any know how you can remove it to replace?? It lokks like it was built into the body. I can't find any good info in the VW Vanagon repair manual for the front tank, back only.

    Capt. Mike Moderator Member # 11 posted 06-10-2001 08:41 PM

    What year? There is an excellent diagram of the front reservoir on page 92.4 of the Electrical section of the Bentley. You can clearly see the retaining screw.
    Be sure your problem is a bad tank before replacing. Most leaks are at the junction of the neck and body. That seal is replaceable and many use some silicone seal to further reinforce it. However, it's not critical as usually they only leak what's been overfilled up into the neck. As soon as that's leaked out, the tank holds quite well as the head pressure on that seal has been eliminated.

    Daycr Junior Member # 1010 posted 06-11-2001 12:23 AM

    Thank you Capt Mike.

    I have the Book, but didn't see the white tank that had been undercoated black....daaaaaa...sorry for the dumb post.
    I am excited about heading out fly fishing next week..

    It is a '90 Westfalia, I bought last year with 49K miles. I had a '72 that I came up to Washington in '73. Dejvue.

    Nick aka Daycr=Day Creek

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    There is a tendency to think more & bigger wiper blades equals better performance. I'm see multiple blades, extra wind dams, and oversize blades.

    Warning! Your Westy was designed with a particular size and style of blade. The motor is rated for that particular load. Anything that increases the load leads to risk of a motor overload or electrical failure. That can get expensive! Never mind the physical task of ripping out half your dash to get to it. The original motor sizing will include power for air dams if they came on factory blades, but not others.

    So if you're tempted to get those chartreuse extra-length double blades at the discount auto store, don't! Invest in a good premium blade (I'm partial to Bosch Micro-Edge) and change them often. The Bosch blades have easily replaceable fillers at reasonable prices. I change every 15K whether they need it or not. Also, be sure your blades are properly adjusted for sweep & angle (see TIPS forum for homemade tool) and that your windshield is clean and in good condition.

    A chipped, cracked or badly dirty windshield will quickly ruin a blade. Also, using wipers on an exceptionally dirty windshield can actually scratch the glass. So can using old and worn blades. Use a good commercial glass cleaner and some elbow grease. Even a brush. Some road films are really tough to get off and may require a solvent or degreaser. (Watch your paint finish.)

    Along the same lines, their are a couple of products for 'slick' glass. Rain-X is the most common. I'll be the first to admit they work, but do NOT recommend them. Like any product applied over an entire surface but where the wear is confined to just part, there is build-up. Also, it's been my experience that as it wears, it actually changes over to making things worse. Some friends, with long use, have experienced long-term problems. Clean glass, good windshield washer solvent, and good blades are all that's necessary.

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    Transferred from another post to consolidate similar topics.

    Windshield spray jets

    86Syncro Junior Member # 1031 posted 07-13-2001 05:22 PM

    I didn't know where to put this, so I hope this is cool as I noticed quite a bit of effort to keep the board organized. But, I thought this could be an exterior problem.
    1986 Vanagon GL Syncro

    Ok, disclaimer behind me, I get no juice from my driver side jet and can't figure out how to fix this problem. I remove the instrument panel and can get one hand behind the dash and can feel the rear side of the jet- where the hose wraps around the plastic and have found where the the hose splits for each jet. However, I cannot get the jet out or remove either end of the hose. I know the problem is in my reach as it is either the jet, the T-splitter or the hose between them is clogged. My trouble is I can only get one hand in there and my fingers just can't muster the strength to seperate any connections. I would like to remove the jet as that seems the likely culprit and it appears it should twist 90 degrees and is removable? But it doesn't want to move.

    Anyone had a successful experience with this? Thanks in advance! Brian

    Oh, yea, Bentley doesn't seem to mention anything about this but only gives an assembly diagram - section 92 I believe.

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    The usual way it to twist, pull and worry it until you bust the damn thing, then put in a new one. However, they mount with plastic retainer fingers and I guess the theory is that you can slide something thin & flat under the nozzle from each side, then while pressing in the tabs -- by feel -- you pull the nozzle with the 3rd hand you grew for that purpose.

    Once removed, you do the change of hose, etc. outside the vehicle and then push the nozzle back in. Do expect to find the hose fused to the nozzle from the heat of sitting in the sun for all these years so plan on replacing it as well.

    Nozzle aren't that expensive but you can bet your dealer doesn't stock them so you'll have to order.

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    Update- Being either impatient or determined to not be defeated by a piece of plastic, I went back to work with the sprayjet. I forgot to mention the nice cramp I got in my hand trying to work the jet out from the inside.

    I finally just busted the jet out and had no trouble with access then- this is my recommendation! Captain Mike was correct as the hose would not come off so I cut the hose below the clog and then used a blade to split the hose off the jet. I just reattached the hose and the jet is back in action, minus two fingers!

    The jet isn't all that loose actually and I may be able to seat it with a peice of tape wrapped around the remaining body or just order a new one.

    Have fun with this one- thanks for the quick reply Capt. - you made me laugh! Cheers, Brian

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    Where do you FILL the front windshield wiper fluid? I have the repair manual, but I do not have an owners manual. The repair manual gives a good blow up diagram of what the apparatus and hoses look like, but it could be attached to the back roof for all I can tell. Seriously, this has stymied me for a few days now.

    --Matthew

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    When I first got my 87 Westy that puzzled me also. After searching around I found it under the drivers side floor mat.

    You should of seen the look on my face when I discovered where the brake master cylinder was hiding.

    Gotta luv your VW.

    Craig

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    Transferred from another post to consolidate same topic.

    Windshield wipers

    kayaker Junior Member # 1474 posted 10-02-2001 11:17 PM

    Hopefully I have directed this to the correct category. On my "85 Westy the wiper arms come to rest below the windshield. Can I undo the securing nuts and reposition the arms, or will I unleash some sort of spring tensioner or...?

    Kayaker

    Ben Beutler Junior Member # 1240 posted 10-03-2001 12:00 AM

    I believe you can just loosen the nut on the wiper arm and lift them off the shaft and then position them where they need to be and put the nut back on. At least this is what I did on another car of mine that I am sure is set up the same way. Kayaker eh? Ever make it to idaho? Going to Oregon in 2 weeks to surf the ocean.

  11. #10
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    No; the only spring tension is the blade itself. Remove the cap; loosen (not remove)the nut; fold the wiper away from the windshield as if changing blades; then remove the nut and lift off the splined post. Move the arm one spline at a time, repeating the process until it sweeps as desired. You don't have to retighten the nut all the way until the final position. Be sure rain cap fits tight when finished to prevent water from getting underneath and rusting assembly or leaking.

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