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Thread: Soundproofing & insulation

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008

    Default Soundproofing question

    Good morning out there,

    I have to replace the interior panel to my sliding door and thought it would be a good time to start soundproofing. I ordered some b-quiet ultimate, and planned on using that against the sheet metal with some bat insulation as well.

    When I removed the panel, I found not only insulation but some black sticky spongy like material on the sheel metal portion of the sliding door. I assume this is VW's attempt at soundproofing material...however, I think my sliding door has been replaced so I really don't know exactly what this stuff is.

    Does anyone know what the black material is? Should I remove it before installing the b-quiet product? Any tips on removing the material?

    Thanks for any help and have a great day!


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  3. #22
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Raleigh, NC USA


    It's probably the panel sound-deadening material available from a lot of aftermarket vendors. VW did use some but was not consistent. It was a lot like thick tarpaper. If it's sound and is not covering up rust, leave it. It reduces the drumming sound of large panels. It doesn't add much insulating value but doesn't hurt. The standard VW insulation was unbacked fiberglass batts.

  4. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Camp sherman

    Default Pop-top insulation

    I have read all of the threads regarding insulation, but did not read of anyone attempting to find or solve the problem of adhesion to the velvet material on the inside roof surface of the pop-top(91 Westy). Though I have insulated most of the essential metal parts now with Dynamat Xtreme.....which by the way, is an AMAZING improvement...I have always noticed how much vibration come from the fiberglass top.


  5. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2003

    Default Couple O' Notes on insulation

    Hi, y'all, I am restoring an '82 diesel Westy (with the help of "the third party's insurance company", thanks Flo). The folks at the body shop have been advising me on a few things, one of which is they do not recommend using fiberglass batting for insulation. They feel it traps moisture against the steel panels and breeds rust (during cold weather, moisture condenses somewhere within the fiberglass layer and can wick to the panel). I used sound-deadening mat (FatMat brand in my case) with a foil face. Body panels were wiped down with acetone to promote adhesion, mat pieces were cut and installed 1/2" smaller than the body section to promote air circulation and no puddling at the bottom of sections. Those areas were sprayed with high-zinc content "cold galvanizing" spray paint to further protect against rust. Over the mat sections was glued "Soundown Vinyl Foam Composite" material, one inch thick. It has a mass barrier layer in the middle to help absorb sound, and a foil face to reflect heat. The edges were wrapped using their silver mylar tape to prevent water intrusion into the foam (it is open cell). The foam was glued to the mat's foil facing using aerosol contact cement. This foam was cut slightly smaller than the mat so it wouldn't put aluminum mat facing to contact steel body panels. There is an air space between the reflective surface of the foam panels and the interior of the bus to help reduce heat transfer, in or out. The body shop provided adhesive plastic cheeting for vapor barrier but this couldn't be used behind the galley counter as the back of the fridge pokes into the wall cavity and it gets hot!
    On the pop-top interior, I was able to scrape the really ugly (by now) flocked headliner using a pushing-style razor blade holder. I have applied some thin mat to the larger panels of the pop-top, and have glued some silvered "bubble-wrap" type insulation to that. Next will come some white vinyle headliner material, hope to heck this all works! I'll write back in another 12 years to let you know.

  6. #25


    Martin, that is a super job. I am about to start down the same road, similarly enabled by my body shop (but without a substitute for Flo). My chap recommends a bead of silicone sealer along the top seam where the horizontal member meets the sidewall. Thus, if all else fails, no water collects in the seam. This seems to be the cause of rusting around the utility connections. It is interesting that Westies are known for rust in the area of these outlets, but elsewhere, using the same fibreglass insulation, there is not a chronic problem. I will be checking the plastic fittings for small cracks.

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